Blog Entries for Matthew Burrows

Matt-Backcountry Backpacking

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 03:00:00 +0100

I started backpacking when I was 11 in the Idaho backcountry and it instantly became one of my favorite outdoor activities.� Add hunting into the mix and a Realtree Max-1 Badlands pack and you can't put a price on the experience of�hunting/hiking in God's country.� It gives me perspective on life and is how I can truly relax.

A few weeks ago I was able to get out for a three day�solo trip.� It gave me the chance to try out some new gear and�look for some�animals!

�

I drink constantly throughout the day so that I stay hydrated.� I use a�MSR Hyperflow filter that hooks right to my hydration bag.

This year it was a very wet spring and the undergrowth is over my head in many areas.

�

I use a Jet Boil stove and love it!� Oatmeal with a cup of coffee is hard to beat at 4 in the morning as you watch the sunrise.

Yes whitetails do live at over 6,000 feet!��

Hunting season is quickly approaching for me.� Good luck to the BowCasters who can already hunt!� Let us know how you do this year.

Get into the field and hunt!

Matt

[...]

Matt-Pre-Season Practice

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Sun, 08 Aug 2010 03:00:00 +0100

Hi BowCasters!

Well the season has started for some of us and will be here soon for the rest.� My season opens September 6th and I can't wait to spend some time in the backcountry of Idaho.� This weekend I took my son with me on the last 3D of the season for me.� My weekends are now booked with family activities and enjoying the last weeks of summer.

�I started shooting broadheads today.� I am still unsure of what I am going to shoot this year.� I might stick with the G5 Montec or go with something new.� In Idaho we are required to shoot fixed blades so I have a lot to choose from but arrow flight and accuracy comes first over brand, looks, and cost.� If you have any suggestions please let me know!

�My Elite Judge will be my bow of choice this year for elk.� I was going to use my Z28 for elk and the Judge for deer,�but�I am liking the longer ATA and its�accuracy.��

Enjoy the rest of your summer BowCasters and keep shooting every day you can!

Matt

[...]

Matt-BowCast at the Bird 2010 in the books

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 03:00:00 +0100

Bowcast at the Bird 2010 is in the books and it was a smokin good time!� My hats off to the FMP boys Anthony and Launch for setting up a killer course.� I was able to shoot the smoker round a few times with some fellow BowCasters and we had a blast!� Hanging out and shooting with these guys and gals made my weekend.� Thanks for the good times and I can't wait until next year.

�These are the sweet smoker round metals that were given out.��

��

I was impressed with my�Elite Judge.� I have very high expecations with my gear and this bow is one of the best I have ever shot.� I was shooting 4"�groups at 90-100 yards consistently.� Can't wait to try some broadheads in a few weeks.

One of the best shots was at a mule deer at 40 yards.� Easy you say!� HA!� It felt like you�were going to lean over the edge of the cliff�when drawing down on the big�guy.� It was even harder to get the target in the picture!

�

The angle of these arrows don't do the shot any justice.��But I would take any of these shots�during season.��

More pics to come!� See you all next year and for all of you who couldn't make it..better start saving now.�

Matt�

[...]

Matt-BowCast Bench Pictures

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Thu, 06 May 2010 03:00:00 +0100

Hi BowCasters,�

A few guys have requested some more pictues of the BowCast Benches.� Here are a few with more to come throughout the year.� I still have to get an arrow saw, press, and vice.� Any suggestions BowCasters on what brand and why??

Here is a picture of the�edge and the top, which has carpet pad�covered with outdoor carpet.�

�

A few nights ago I bought some rubber floor mats, some more storage bins, and hangers for the peg board.

�I am shooting an Elite Judge this year and am starting to get my accessories all dialed in.� I changed out the mods to adjust my draw length and it was easy.� A few hundred more shots through this string and then I will be taking it off for my spare and replacing it with a custom Vapor Trail string.� More to come on this bow as I prepare for the fall and BowCast at the Bird.

Matt

[...]

Matt-BowCast Bench Materials

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Fri, 30 Apr 2010 03:00:00 +0100

I have had several requests for the list of materials I used to make my BowCast Benches.� Here is the list and a few more details of how I put it together.� See the pictures in my previous blog.� BowCast Benches

Bench�#1�

�8' bench,�32" deep,�38" high, and 24"�back off of deck.

Bench #2

4' bench,�32" deep,�38" high, and 24"�back off of deck.

List of Materials

2 sheets of plywood-Use 1/2" or thicker.� 1/2" is strong enough but if you want overkill use 3/4 sub floor or� 5/8 to 3/4 plywood.� Rip each sheet into three pieces 32" wide.

I used 2x6 for the front edges but I would recomend using 2x4 as this is enough and cheaper.� I only used a 2x6 as I am going to put a draw board on the front.� I would get ~16 2x4s @ 8' in length for the frame.

1 sheet of peg board ripped down to 24" so that you have two pieces 24" x8'

1�� 2x2� and 1� 2x6�To finish out�the top of the benches.

I bought two 24" lights at WalMart for ~$9 each to mount under this finished top.� These are the cheapest I could find and they work great.

�Steps

Build the frame first.� I used an impact driver screw gun and if you don't have one then consider predrilling your holes so that the end of the boards don't split out.� The frame should be 32"x 8' and 32" x 48".� Build two frames for each bench as one will be for the bench top and one for the shelf.� You can make in whatever width you want but not more than 32" if you are ripping each sheet into three even pieces.

After the frames are build cut the front legs to the height you want the bench.� I would suggest 36" to 40".� Then cut the back legs making sure that you just add 24" to whatever you cut the front ones at.� The back legs will run all the way up through the plywood and the front will be flush with the top of the frame and then covered with the plywood top.

Screw the front legs in flushing the top of the 2x4 with the 2x4 frame.� Then screw in the back legs making sure that the deck is level, work on a level surface.� Next take the second frame and slide it up the legs to the desired height.� I made mine 17" off the ground so I can slide my hunting totes under the shelf.

Cut cross supports for frame and attach�as the plywood will sit on these and the edge of the frame.� Cut out holes in the plywood for the legs and screw down to frame.

Attach the back peg board to the back of the legs running through the top of the table.� Use the 2x6 and 2x2 or 2x4 material to trim out the top or leave unfinished.� I would run an board at the bottom and top to help support the peg board.

If you have specific questions post them here and I can answer them.� Customize your�bench to make it work for you and what you specialize in.

Matt

[...]

Matt-BowCast Bench

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Mon, 05 Apr 2010 03:00:00 +0100

A few weeks ago�I started building�two archery benches for my�home bow shop.� I thought about what I wanted in a bench and looked at many pictures online of other home made bow benches.� Here is a breakdown of the benches.� I will be posting more pictures�over the summer as I start using them.

Bench�#1�

�8' bench,�32" deep,�38" high, and 24"�back off of deck.

This bench will be used mainly for my bow vice, fletching arrows, and general bow tunning.� I plan to put a draw board on this bench using the front 2x6.� More to come on that project.

I purchased two sheets of 3/4" plywood for these benches.� Instead of ripping it length wise I cut each sheet into three pieces 32" wide.� This gave me the material for the tops of both benches and for the shelves.� I could have used 1/2" but wanted a stronger surface incase I had to attach a vice or press.

The front legs are cut to the height you want less the thickness of your deck, use 2x4.� In my case they were 37 1/4".� The back legs can be cut the same length or run them longer and use them for the support of the back board.� For the decking I used outdoor carpet and carpet pad.� I would suggest using 2x4s around the top deck as 2x6s are overkill.� I used them because I'm planning on buildng a draw board on the front of the bench.

�

Bench #2

The second bench I made is 4" and made the same way as bench #1.� However since I plan on placing a bow press and arrow saw on this bench I painted the deck with a semi-gloss.

I will be posting�more pictures�after I have them�completed in the next month or two.� Respond to this blog if you want more pictrues on any specific part of the benches or need any help on how to build one.

Matt

[...]

Matt-Back in the Saddle

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Wed, 31 Mar 2010 03:00:00 +0100

Hi BowCasters!

I can't believe how time flies and looking back my last blog entry was in November of 2009.�� Shortly after that�post I was approached about a job opening.� After about a month of negotiations between two CFOs we made the decision to move.� We are now finally settled��and I�will be more consistent with my blog entries.��

�Last weekend I went to my first 3D of the�year and packed my son�for his first�3D.� I have been looking forward to the day that I could take him out and he loved every minute of it!� I packed him around in my Badlands 2800 pack.� The wings on this pack held him in perfectly, he was comfortable, and he is about the same weight as my day pack, ~30lbs.

I always shoot 3D with my pack on as that is how I hunt.� Being able�to make a shot with 30 pounds on your back legs kicking just mimics the wind in the highcountry.�

See you at the Bird 2010!

Matt

[...]

Matt-Nikon Monarch X Review

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 03:00:00 +0100

I have been using my Nikon Monarch X 10X42s for most of the summer at 3D shoots and while shooting at the range.� Last weekend I was able for the first time to test them out in the field.� I was whitetail hunting in the cold and snow for most of the time and this binocular performed just as well as it did in the mildness of summer.� Here are my thoughts on the Monarch X.

Adjustability- The large center focus knob is the perfect size for quick adjustments, even when thicker gloves are being worn. �The eye cups have ample adjustability and lock securely in small increments giving the ability to have a deep or shallow eye relief.

Detail and Clarity- The Monarch X is the sharpest binocular I have looked through in its price range.� The detail and clarity does not fade from the center to the edge of the field of view as the result of the quality dielectric high-reflective multilayer prism coating.� Even in the low light conditions of the early morning and late evenings this binocular continued to deliver crisp clear images.�

What impressed me the most about the Monarch X was that even when it was snowing and wet the glass did not fog as I brought them to my eyes.� In the past all my binoculars have fogged unless the glass was completely dry.� I did not have any issues and as you wipe the water from the glass the coating doesn't seem to look like its being wiped away too.

�

Ergonomic and Lightweight- The rubber armor that protects and waterproofs this binocular is also very soft and comfortable to hold, even for extended periods of glassing.� When the temperature was below freezing the armor still remained soft and was one of the best non-slip grips I have ever used. ��The open bridge design and contoured recess for thumb placement allows this binocular to be held comfortably with both hands and is easily manageable to support with one hand.� This is the first open bridge design binocular I have ever owned, and the benefits of comfort and the lightweight design will keep me from using anything else in the future.

Lens Caps- The Monarch X binocular comes with flip-down objective lens cap covers.� I found the tab that holds these covers to the barrel of the binocular to come out of the small keeper.� After having them fall off a few times at the range I took the covers off completely.� I usually don't like flip off covers anyway when in the field as that usually�require two hands to take off.� Where I hunt most often all you get is a split second to judge an animal and the ability to grab the binocular and see the animal unobstructed is what I want.

Overall- I would rate this binocular a 9 out of 10.� If you are�in the market for some new glass I would take a look through these and compare them to other binoculars on the market.� Everyone's eyes are different so take them outside of the store and compare your top choices before you buy.

Hopefully this weekend I can see a nice whitetail through the Monarch X glass.� Keep hunting�hard and good luck BowCasters!�

[...]

Matt-Elite GT500 Review

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 03:00:00 +0100

Early this spring I began shooting as many different bows as possible.� I wanted to see if I was missing something in all the new bows on the market.� After shooting the Elite GT500 my mind was made up and I started a new journey with a bow that was totally different than my Mathews.� This blog is a follow up to my original review of the Elite GT500 that I did in March.�

After shooting the GT500�on the�3D�courses�this spring�and turkey hunting with it here is a breakdown of what I liked and what I would change.

Accuracy-� The first day I shot this bow I was more accurate and consistent at 40 yards than with any other bow I have owned.� My groups were tighter and my confidence was higher.� I contribute this to the bow being a little longer than I was use to shooting in the past.� This gave me more stability and that was�reflected in my groups.� Additionally, I believe the quality of the materials and workmanship on this bow added to the overall performance and accuracy.

The Grip- One of my favorite�design features�on the GT500 is the grip.� I like a thin grip with a flat platform on the riser.� This gives stability through the draw and at full draw.��Bows that have a rounded wood�grip or rounded riser seem to twist more in my hand as I come�to full draw.�� Adjusting�the grip back to its original position�once at full draw�can�cause one to�torque the riser.�

Riser Shelf- If I had one complaint�about the GT500 it would be with the riser shelf.� I used two different styles of rests and both contacted the left side of the riser shelf which has a little lip.��The GT500�and my Z28 paper�tuned to the left of what the laser center shot tool showed.� This caused the left fork of my rest to always contact the left lip on the riser and not sit flat on the riser shelf.� I don't know the purpose for having a lip on the riser shelf of any bow and in my opinion would look just as good not to have one and have the shelf width increased about 3/8s of an inch.

Quality Parts- One of the main reasons the GT500 stood out to me was the quality parts that are used.� The Barnesdale limbs, string,�string stop, finish, and machining of the cams.� I have had no issues with any of the parts on this bow and if I ever do Elite's warranty is one of the best in the industry.

Overall- This is a great bow for hunting and shooting 3D.� I give it 9 out of 10 for the smooth draw, stability/balance,�solid back wall, and its exceptional quality.� I will be using it in the future primarily for spring 3D and turkey hunting.� Next week I am going to start shooting paper with it at a new indoor range to work on my form and release.� If you haven't shot this bow at a pro-shop I encourage you to do so.� Compare it to other bows and you might walk away pleasantly surprised.

[...]

Matt-My New School Rig

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 03:00:00 +0100

Here is the�roadmap�on my new school rig.� This year I traveled�out of my comfort zone,�leaving my�single cam bow�and fixed pins.� The result..... This rig left my old rig in the dust somewhere a few thousand shots ago.

I call my rig�the Camo Killer; although it's only killed foam so far this year. An Elite Z28 with a fresh Advantage�Max-1 paint job and two cams that REV my camo Easton FMJ's across the finish line and into the lung garage. I use�a 3pin Boss Hogg sight with .010 pins, Trophy Taker rest and a Fuse stabilizer and quiver. My arrows are tipped with a G5 Montec broadhead�and Fusion vanes twirl them to their destination.

I started using a brass nock as a kisser�this year and can't believe I never had one before.� It has been a contributing factor to my increased accuracy.� Now in my anchor routine I have the�string on the tip of my nose, brass nock in corner of my lip, and thumb�locked on the back of my neck.

I didn't totally�go away from the fixed pins this year, but just dropped a few off.� I have a 20, 40, and 60 yard pin.� I have my middle pin set up as the one that I aim with when I want to dial my sight in to a specific yardage.� My range is 0-100 yards with the middle pin and I used all that range at BowCast at the Bird.

�

I started using grip tape at BATB.� One of the�main advantages is that it keeps your�hand in the same position from the time you draw�through the release.� You don't want to reposition your hand on the�riser after you have come to full draw as this can cause torque in the riser.� I had a bad habit of moving my hand after I came to full draw.��A fellow BowCaster gave me a small strip of the stair grip paper and I placed it on the backside of the riser which contacts the palm of my hand.

My Fuse quiver is�a Caldera model which�I don't�think is even made anymore.� I found a brand new one online as I needed the adjustable brackets which allow the hood and bottom to slide back and forth.� I customized it by taking the top bracket flipping it and using it on the bottom.�� Then I took the bottom bracket and used it on the top.� I had to cut and thread a new mounting peg for the top bracket but in the end it was worth the extra work.� I also cut the length down on the top and bottom�mounting pegs�to bring my quiver in as close to the bow limbs and strings as possible.�

Now my bow is balanced and I have access to the�dials on my Spot Hogg sight for quick adjustments.

This is my new school rig and I'm loving the ride.

Matt

[...]

Matt-Bows and Babies

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 03:00:00 +0100

During the month of September I'm usually out every weekend chasing bulls in the backcountry of Idaho.� However, this year in September I have been at home�awaiting the arrival of our daughter.�

Just because I'm not out hunting the early archery season doesn't give me an excuse to slack on shooting as much as possible.� I have been shooting my broadheads for the past few months at the range.� I'm using 100 grain G5 Montecs to tip my camo Easton FMJs.

�This year I have been working on my release.� In the past my tendency was to pull the trigger with my finger and not use my back muscles to pull through the shot.� After listening to Charlie Owens�seminar on release techniques, at�Bowcast at the Bird, I changed how I was releasing my arrows.� Instead of just moving my trigger finger to apply pressure and fire the release, I'm focusing on applying pressure with my finger and then squeezing my back muscles to actually move my whole arm and finger.�

Our daughter�was born last week.� I stayed around the house to�help my wife and enjoy the first few days together as a family.� One of my wishes for her is to not just like pink bows in her hair but also enjoy a day in the field hunting with dad,�a camo bow in hand.�

Now that September is almost past, I'm looking forward to hunting the late season here in Washington for elk and deer.

Keep hunting hard Bowcasters!

Matt

[...]

Matt-How to Pack

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Mon, 07 Sep 2009 03:00:00 +0100

I can still remember the first time I went on a backpacking�trip as a teen.� I had my green Kelty�overflowing and I could barley shoulder it.� It pulled me all over the trail.� Over the years of backpacking and hunting I have learned how to pack and what to pack.� From weight distribution�to�organization, here are a few tips I have learned.�

Sleeping Bag Compartment�

I pack this compartment first as it gives a good base for packing the main compartment.� I have used two methods for packing items in this compartment.� Below I am using a separate bag for my sleeping bag, bivy, and sleeping pad.� I will also use an OR(Outdoor Research)�compression bag for all three of these items.� I like the OR compression bag because it's completely waterproof and it weighs no more than the three bags shown here.� It also allows me to pack in extra clothes or gear and free up room in my pack if I need to pack out a cape or meat.� Just attach it to the daisy chain on your pack or to the top or bottom lid.

�Main Compartment

This is where ~70% of the weight should be.� Pack the heaviest items so that they sit tight against the framesheet of the pack.� You don't want the weight to start 12 inches off your back.� This will cause�the load to be�unbalanced and�it will pull you backwards all the time.� Keep the weight as close to your core as possible.

I pack my water, Nikon spotting scope, Jet Boil, and butchering supplies right against my back.� The next layer I pack lighter items such as extra clothes and food.�

�

Outside pockets�

In trying to keep your pack�weight as close to your core or center of gravity as possible you don't want any heavy items in the outside pockets.� Pack light items like a first aid kit, calls, rope, water filter,�and headlamp.� I try not to get more than 10 pounds in total in these pockets.�

After all your items are packed, shoulder it and see how equal the weight is from side to side, front to back.� Make adjustments so that you carry the load and the�load doesn't�pull you.�

Hit the trail and hunt hard!�

Matt

[...]

Matt-Backcountry Meat Care

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 03:00:00 +0100

Season for me opens in a few weeks and I am starting to organize the items for my pack.� One of the�significant items�in my pack revolves around boning out a bull or buck in the backcountry.� I never leave my truck without the items below in my Badlands, even if I'm only hunting for a few hours or a day.� I keep everything but the knives and saw in a gallon ziplock.� This way it keeps the game bags from getting wet and I have it all in one easy to access package.� Here is a list of the items that I carry in my pack for�boning out a bull or a buck.

Cold Steel drop point knifeMedium sized filet knifeSkinning knifeCombination knife with skinning blade and extra�bladeCaping items-Scalple and a mix of�~10 bladesWyoming Saw50 feet of��parachute cordzip ties4 large game bagsCleaning items-paper towels,�wash cloth and wipes�2 large trash bags

�

Here is a picture of the bull I shot last year.� I choose to just pack out meat as I never want to pack the extra weight of bones.� It usually takes me 3-4 hours to completely bone out a bull, cut the antlers off and dig out the ivories.� On this bull I�cut 270 pounds of�elk meat.�

Here is a quick version of the process I have used on my bulls.

Skin one side at a time.Saw off the legs at the knees.Bone out the hind quarter, ribs,�shoulder, neck,� and then backstrap.� Flip bull and do the same.� Then after your�complete cut the ribs on one side with your saw.� Pull the ribs back and away and you should have access to the tenderloins.� Unless you want to eat the liver and heart you should never have to gut the bull.Keep meat from quarters, neck and ribs in one game bag, backstrap and tenderloin in another.Try to keep hair off the meat, yes its a pain but worth it in the end.Keep your hands as clean as possible.� If they smell like a rutting bull they will transfer some of it to the meat you touch.� Use a small meat hook.Try to get as much air circulating around your meat bags as possible.� This helps cool the meat.� Hanging it from a tree is the best, placing it�in the cool shade, or laying it on some branches to get it off the ground also works great.Store meat away from carcass.Cut with care and watch out for sharp broken bones!�

�

Meat will keep cool when it can breathe.� I use a mid weight game bag that keeps the flies out and doesn't allow much dirt�to get in�if you have to drag it or roll it on the ground before it goes on your pack frame.� This picture was after a long 4 hour pack at mid day at ~70-75degrees and the meat in the game bags felt cool.

Take the extra time to clean off any hair or dirt.� Hair�will taint the flavor of the meat quickly.� Especially if it's from a rutting buck or bull.� Make sure to wash your hands�to�so you don't transfer�the�smell of�the bull or buck.� If I can't get�the meat�to my processor the day I pack it out I put the meat on ice to keep cool.� Make sure to keep the meat dry.� Last year I sandwiched it between layers of ice bags protected by some clean old sheets and a tarp to keep it dry.� The next morning it was nice and cool.

I hope everyone has the chance to pack, drag or transport a trophy out of the field and into your freezer this year.� Be prepared when you go into the field and always have a plan to care for your meat.

Matt

[...]

BowCast at the Bird Pictures

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Mon, 03 Aug 2009 03:00:00 +0100

All I can say is that I��am counting the days until next year!� The shoot was intense, a learning experience but most of all a fun time!� Here are a few pictures.� More to come!

For me this was the best shot on the course.� A Dall at ~116 yards, shot for ~80 yards.� Anthony below did a great job in visualizing shots that were extreme, challenging,�realistic and�educational.� If you didn't know what�the�bubble level in your sight was for or why your 3rd axis�was so important, you learned quickly on the�elite course.� The�shots on the elite course pushed everyone physically and mentally.� I had the pleasure of shooting with Anthony Dixon and Curt Wells on Saturday.� I learned invaluable information about form and equipment, but most of all I enjoyed the company of two experienced archers and two great men.

The Dall was shot from a small ledge right after a 100 yard shot at a mule deer!� If I ever get to go Dall sheep hunting I will be practicing this type of shot so that when a 60 yard shot presents itself I will be more than confident that I can make the shot.� That is what this shoot was all about!

�

We gave away a Z28 and GT500 from Elite Archery.� Yes guys she shoots and yes there were girls that hiked the elite course without complaining.� There was even one guy who went bare foot part of the way!�

�

This was our base camp where you could shoot Elite bows, look through Nikon glass, learn about Easton arrows, buy Addiction apparel, and even get some new arrows made.� Below Curt Wells is giving a great talk about equipment and photos.� Everyone learned some great tips!

This is a just�one feather from the Bird.� I can't wait to see more pictures and videos.

Matt

[...]

Matt-3D Series- Uphill-Downhill Shots

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Sun, 26 Jul 2009 03:00:00 +0100

Only 6 days left until BowCast at the Bird 3D shoot!

I have been shooting everyday at the range or in my basement.� However, one of the critical factors I have been leaving out of these daily shooting routines is shooting uphill or downhill shots.� The only time I practice these shots is�when I shoot the 3D range at my proshop or if I'm at a 3D shoot.��This�equates to not enough practice for the number of times in the field that I have taken angled shots.�

BowCast at the Bird will have some uphill and downhill shots and chances are you might be faced with these same types of shots during season.� Whether you're�in a tree stand or shooting a buck above you�on a cliff after a 5 hour stalk, knowing the basics and practicing these shots is what will make you successful this season.� Lets review the basics.

Form�

When shooting uphill-downhill, don't just lift your arm or�drop it to place the pin on the target.� Draw your bow as if your target was directly level with you.� Bend at the waist�using your back muscles and not your arm muscles.� This will cause you to keep the same draw length and anchor points.� This will translate into consistency.� Try to make your upper torso look like a T�but be bent at the waist.

Uphill

I'm not going to get into all the math and factors of gravity on arrows for angled shots in this blog.� This year I will be using a Nikon Rifle Hunter 550 to do my calculations.��This is�the first year that I've had an angle compensating range finder, but shooting 3D gives me the practice I need incase I don't have the time to range an animal before I shoot.

The general rule I use when estimating yardage for an uphill or downhill shot is how far the animal is on a horizontal path from where I stand.� For example in the picture below I estimated the horizontal�yardage to be ~22 yards.� The line of sight to the target is ~28 yards.� I shot this mule deer for 20 yards and tried to put the arrow in the�bottom of the ten ring (bottom of the heart and backside lung).� Remember on steep shots the angle of your arrow and where it will likely exit.� You don't want to shoot low and only clip one lung or high and get backstrap.

Downhill

For downhill shots I try and find a tree that is near the target�and then estimate the horizontal distance.� Or if I'm shooting from a cliff I will try to estimate the horizontal distance on the ground from the base of the cliff to the target.� In the picture below I used both methods.� I estimated the horizontal distance to be ~35 yards and the line of sight distance to be ~45 yards.

This picture shows the results of my estimation.� The bottom arrow is�my first�shot for 35 yards.��The top arrow is my second shot to show how much higher the arrow impacted when shooting for 40 yards.� Had I shot this elk for the line of sight distance of ~45 yards I think I would have shot over it's back.� I will admit that I have done this numerous times at 3D shoots and probably will in the future.� Estimating angled shots without a range finder can be very difficult, but building your confidence and ability is what 3D is all about.

Always evaluate the arrow angle when you get to the target.� I hit right where I was aiming with my first arrow.� However, as I got to the target I noticed that it would have been a better kill shot to be a little higher and back.� My margin for error would have been greater and that is the shot I probably would have taken in the field.� Make mental notes on arrow placement and arrow angle.� Its small details like these that you can take from the 3D course to the field and increase your chances of success this fall.

I plan to practice some downhill shots this week in preparation for season and BowCast at the Bird.� I will be using my Nikon 550 to check my estimates and build my confidence.

Take it to the field!!

Matt

[...]

Matt- 3-D Series Part 2- Estimating Yardage

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Mon, 13 Jul 2009 03:00:00 +0100

Has anyone ever shot over the back of a bear or under a deer?� I have!� The main reason was not following my shot routine and�failing to�estimate the yardage accurately.� Everyone has a different shot routine and method for estimating yardage.� However,�its important to�follow your routine each and every time before you release an arrow into foam or fur.�

Estimating yardage before each shot is part of my routine.� I run through the same process at the range, on the 3-D course and in the field.� The time I take to estimate yardage�at these�locations�varies.�

At the range I usually wait 15-30 seconds between shots to refocus and restart my shot sequence.� I first estimate the yardage in ten yard increments and�then estimate the midpoint before doubling it.� I spend extra time at the range burning these increments into my mind so that they come faster when the moment of truth arrives.

�

On the 3-D course I estimate the yardage quicker than I would at the range.� I think its easier because there are trees,�rocks, logs and stumps that can�be used to mark off the yardage.� Use the landscape as your yardage markers as your eyes cover the ground to your trophy and then back to the stake.� Then pick your midpoint and double it.� Any variances between the two estimates might require a second look but you will find that you can process all of this in half the time it took you at the range because there are landmarks versus flat ground at the range that all looks the same.

Below is a great example of how the terrian can help you quickly estimate the yardage.� There is a log, rock pile and then another log before the target.� The further the target the more difficult�it can be to estimate that final 20 yards.� I over estimated the yardage on this target as the small size of the goat made me think it was further past the last log.� Knowing the size of the animal is another key factor in estimating yardage.

When competing�at 3-D shoots�I don't/can't use�my Nikon�range finder.� In the field I have�rarely been able to range an animal before I shot it.� As many of you know�animals can come charging in to calls or jump�up from their beds 50 yards away, leaving only seconds to make a shot.� I do range trees, stumps,�ect. before I set up to�call elk�or when still hunting whitetail but even then my mind takes over when�it comes time to make the shot.�

All my kill shots on elk and deer have been using my own internal range finder, my brain.� I can honestly say that all of these kills were a direct result of learning how to quickly estimate yardage.� Training your�brain to quickly estimate yardage at the 3-D course and then transferring that knowledge�to the field will lead to success.

On my next blog�I will cover uphill and downhill shots.� As always keep practicing your own customized shot routine, become familiar with your equipment and have confidence in the shots you are taking.

Matt

[...]

Matt-Daily Shooting

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 03:00:00 +0100

Just a�quick post on what I'm up to.� I have been shooting my�Elite Z28 everyday this week and am finally getting it dialed.� Getting ready for BowCast at the Bird and hunting season!� I got my plane ticket this week to SLC and I can't wait to shoot some foam�at Snowbird.

I am�very impressed with the Z28 and have been shooting tighter groups than I was with my Mathews after three years.� Here�is a picture of my group at 80 yards today.��

I�also�fletched up some new arrows last week.��Easton Axis FMJ 400s with�BowCast�wrap and I'm trying out�Norway Industries' Fusion vane.� I am very pleased with the results and groups I'm getting with this arrow/bow combination.�

Hope everyone has a chance to get out and shoot this week.� Make it part of your daily routine!

Matt

[...]

Matt- 3-D Series Part1-The Range

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 03:00:00 +0100

BowCast at the Bird 3-D shoot is August 1st and for many BowCasters archery season starts shortly after.� How are you improving your shooting accuracy to make this season a success?� Are you, shooting daily at the range, practicing estimating yardage, and working on your shot routine?� The realistic hunting challenges you will face at 3-D shoots allow you to apply these hours of practice, increasing your confidence and effectiveness on foam and then fur.� Shooting for your trophy starts at the range, is lived out on the 3-D course, and then experienced in the field.

Part 1- The Range

Shooting at the pro-shop range, in the basement or in your backyard at known yardage is critical for developing your shooting skills as an archer.� I try to make it to my range at least 3 times a week during my lunch break.� I will also try to shoot daily in my basement even if it's only for 5 minutes. �Use this time to develop or refine your form and proper shooting technique as these are the foundation for making an accurate shot in the field.� When I am practicing at the range I focus on yardage estimation, picking a spot, my shot routine, and learning the path my arrow takes as it arcs towards the target.�

At most ranges the yardages are marked and it's easy to just pull up and shoot with the designated pin.� Take the time before each shot to estimate the yardage just like you would out in the field.� I mark off the distance to the target in10 yard increments, pick the half way point and then double it, or simply practicing using my range finder.

Stay calm...pick a spot!

Picking a spot is critical at the range, on the 3-D course and in the field.� Without a spot identified your pin will float over the target or kill zone of an animal.� This will cause you to punch the trigger when you think you're "close enough".� To practice picking a spot at the range I don't always soot for the bulls eye.� I try to find a mark or hole in the paper to shoot at.� This helps me really hone in on that one spot instead of just centering my pin in the ten ring.� For me a black bear is the hardest 3-D animal to pick a spot on, especially if the target is in the shade and there are no visible shot marks. �

My shot routine starts by placing myself mentally in a hunting situation that I hope to see in the upcoming season.� Visualization for me is a MUST!� After I have visualized the animal and my eyes are focused on a spot, I draw, anchor, level up my bow and bring the designated pin down over the spot.� As I steady my pin I concentrate on breathing and a subconscious release as my finger squeezes the trigger.�

This is a scene I might visualize when I'm shooting at the range.

Knowing the path your arrow takes on its flight to the target is a crucial part in making an accurate shot at the 3-D course or in the field.� For example, learn the path your arrow takes to a 40 yard target by shooting a 20 yard target with your 40 yard pin.� The two or three inches high your arrow hits on the target will give you knowledge on your arrow's trajectory.� This will give you confidence on the 3-D course and then in the field when there is a branch out at 20 yards covering the kill zone of an animal standing at 40.� The knowledge you have gained at the range and tested at 3-D shoots will allow you to have confidence that your arrow will easily clear the branch at 20 yards when you place your 40 yard pin on it.�

Here is a picture of some�branches ~15 yards out from where I am shooting.� They are not covering the kill zone but with the steep angle they came into my field of view and were very close to contacting my arrow.

��

I practice on the range shooting 10-60 yards with each pin, 20-60.� Start with your 20 yard pin and then shoot each of the six targets.� Go through each pin using the same routine.� This tells me how high and low my arrow will be at the different yardages using the different pins.

Here is a close up of the shot window on this buck.

I hope everyone is getting the chance to practice at the range and 3-D course this summer.�� I will be discussing other aspects of 3-D shooting in upcoming blogs over the next month.� The most important of�which is to get out and have some fun with family and friends!!!

Pick a spot and shoot for the Bird BowCasters!

Matt

[...]

Matt-Turkey 2009 Part 4

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Tue, 19 May 2009 02:00:00 +0100

I'm really determined to end this blog series with a successful picture of a turkey harvested with my Elite�GT500 and not my Benelli Super Black Eagle....� :)� BUT for me if I don't get a turkey by May 31st with my bow, it won't be an unsuccessful season.� I measure my success by the amount of time I am able to spend in the outdoors.� This is what I live for.

�

Last week the wife was out of town.��This gave me�the opportunity to go out 4 times and I enjoyed every minute of it.� It rained on me one night, was windy another, and then�the weather was perfect�for one evening and morning hunt.� On two occasions I had turkeys gobbling but they were on some property that was posted and I couldn't call them over as they were getting ready to roost.

I haven't been hunting out of my blind for the past two weeks. If I hear birds in the area I will sit in it and try to call them in.� But if there isn't any around it's spot and stalk style.� I have a limited area to hunt on of about 50 acres so I can't roam around too much but I can only take so much sitting in a blind.

I'm going out again this weekend before the wife returns and will enjoy the beauty of spring and the hunt even if I don't kill a bird.

Matt

[...]

Matt- Turkey 2009 Part 3

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Wed, 13 May 2009 02:00:00 +0100

�

Update.....Turkey Hunting

I am still after turkeys here in Washington.� I missed a jake last week.� I called in a group of about 8 turkeys and was behind some fir trees.� As they walked by I had about a 2 inch opening in the tree branches to shoot through.� However the turkeys were only about 10 feet away and I used my 20 yard pin and shot right over the back of a jake.� Rookie mistake I know.�

I went out last night and again this morning.� The weather here is still very cold in the mornings and with a wind it has to be below freezing.� I froze this morning!�� I had a hen calling back to me but only heard one gobble.�

Get out and HUNT BowCasters!!

Preparing for BowCast at the Bird

Are there any BowCasters out shooting 3-D courses this spring?�� I was finally able to attend my first 3-D shoot of the year last weekend and had a blast trekking around with my brother.� I shot 10 different courses last year and I was confident about my shooting ability and equipment going into hunting season.� I say confident in that I had the chance to practice shots that I would see in the field with the exact gear I used during the season.� This year I'm taking the same approach.� I plan to shoot another 3-D course this weekend.�

Launch must get his confidence from shooting these trophy sized mulie 3D targets.�� :)� I'm giving it a try this year.�

Can't wait for the BowCast at the Bird 3-D event!!

Matt

[...]