Blog Entries tagged 'archery'

Matt-Paper Tuning Part 1

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 02:00:00 +0100

�

Part 1-Making a Paper Tuner

I am still working on building my home bow shop like I'm sure many of you are.� There is a great PodCast, episode #53, on what tools and supplies you will need to start your own home bow shop.� One of the items missing from my shop was a paper tuner.� I have tried many times to quickly tune my bow shooting a piece of paper taped to my ladder rungs.� NOT a good idea and one I would NOT recommend as I put a few holes in the wall of my basement and was out a few arrows. �This blog entry will show you how you can make your own paper tuner by simply going to your local hardware and grocery store and spending around $30.

I know there are many different paper tuner designs�on the market and you have all probably seen one at your local pro shop so feel free to alter this design to adapt to your own specifications such as height and construction materials.� The main goal is to have the right type of paper and a tuner that will hold the paper tight so that you get clean crisp tears when you shoot through it.� I will be doing another blog shortly on how to use this paper tuner.

Construction Materials

You can purchase these materials at any Lowes, Home Depot, or plumbing/hardware supplies store.

-3 pieces of 1" schedule 40 plumbing pipe 10' long

-1 piece of 3/4" schedule 40 plumbing pipe 24" long

-6 �1" elbows 90 degrees

-4� 1" Ts

-2� 1"Ts with the leg of the T being 3/4"

-1 roll of freezer paper

-PVC cement

-Tools- tape, marker, saw, rasp or knife to nock down edges after cutting

Step 1-

Cut the 1" schedule 40 into the following dimensions;

8 pieces 24" long,

2 pieces 20" long,

2 pieces �46" long,

and 2 pieces 2" long.�

If you are tall/short and want to increase/decrease the height of your paper tuner then add or subtract�from the 46" measurement.

Cut the 3/4" pipe 24" long.

Clean with a knife or rasp the edges that were cut.

Step 2-

The base is made of all 24" pieces from the 1" pipe.� You want to glue this together on a flat surface so that all 6 joints are making contact with the floor.� Start with the two Ts and�glue a 24" piece on either end.� When gluing with the pvc cement, lightly cover the end of the pipe and the inside of the fitting and twist together.� After the two long sides are complete, glue the 90 degree elbows and then the connecting 24" ends making sure it stays flat and is not tourqued.

Step 3-

The sides are next and they can be cut to the necessary height.� I am 5' 11" and made mine so that I am usually shooting in the middle of the paper at full draw.� Take the 46" pieces and glue a T to one end.� Then glue the 2" piece� of the 1" schedule 40 to the other end of the T.� The last set of Ts are the ones with a 3/4" opening on the�leg�that will hold the pipe that the�paper is on.� Glue these Ts to each of the remaining portion of the 2" pipe.�

Make sure and align the holes!

After the Ts are glued and aligned, glue in the 20" pieces, continuing the side of the paper tuner.� Finally, glue a 90 degree elbow to the top of the 20" piece making sure that it aligns with the two Ts below.�

Don't glue any 24" pieces together on the upright portion of the tuner so that you can take off the paper and turn the top bar to roll up the excess paper.

Step 4

The 24" piece of 3/4" schedule 40 will go through the center of the freezer paper.�

�

Place the piping for the sides in the Ts on the base and attach the two sides with the three 24" pieces, leaving the top until last.� Don't glue the 90 degree elbows to the top horizontal 24" piece as you can roll the paper with it as you start to use it.

Step 5

String the paper behind the bottom 1" bar and then take it to the top 1" bar.� Tape it to the bar the length of the paper.� You can either cut and tape it each time you need a new piece or just twist the top bar and roll up the used paper.� You might need to use a small piece of tape on either side of the paper on the bottom bar to keep the paper tight.

Step 6

Place a target 6' behind the paper tuner to allow your fletching to clear and start shooting and�tuning.

Step 7

Read my upcoming blog, Paper Tuning Part 2, to learn how and use the paper tuner you just built.�

[...]

Living the Essence - Hardcore

joeedge@bowcast.com — Tue, 23 Sep 2008 02:00:00 +0100

Living the Essence; Hardcore Bowhunting

Peers ask me all the time, �Why do you like bowhunting so much? All it is, is shooting animals.� I just have to smirk the comment off, because I know that bowhunting is something that is kindled deep in the heart of a person who wants a challenge; to be responsible, respectful and rejuvenated by all that nature has to offer. Some people say that �If you haven�t already done it, you never will.� I tend to disagree; however, if you really want to be a hardcore bowhunter, all it takes is for someone to plant the seed. From that point on, bowhunting is one of those things that people will either grow apart from, whereas the true hardcore bowhunter will find themselves obsessed by mystique of the bow and arrow. I am of the later.

�

There are many things in life that I have tried, each with their individual successes and failures; however, there is one thing that I simply cannot let go. I�ve loved doing other things just as much; it�s just that bowhunting and I go hand in hand. Not a day goes by when I don�t think of a big velvet buck, or a big bull running in to my setup and screaming, a stick�s toss away. I can be working through a math problem in school, or sitting in the bullpen at a baseball game, however my thoughts revolve about arching the bow back on a trophy animal.

Being 18 years old, it seems that adult always look down upon me, whether it be in the shop, or on the range. They don�t truly believe in the capabilities of the hardcore youth bowhunter. I would agree and say they are few and far between, but I am one of them. As the clich� goes, I eat, sleep and dream bowhunting. From the many bowhunting publications in every reading spot in the house, to the hunting DVD collection that far outnumbers chart-topping comedies. There�s more camo in my closet than all the shirts and pants. I have a spot for my backpack, bivy sack and bow case right next to my bed. It�s a commonality for me to carry one, if not two pairs of binos in my car, �just in case�. No matter the occasion you can find me in a camo hat. However, that�s not where you can decipher the difference between the weekend warrior and the true hardcore bowhunter.

It�s not about how many hunting decals I can fit on the back of my car (although I do have about 20), or how much game I can spit, BS�in down at the pro shop; It�s about what I do, out there where it really counts. The real things that make me a hardcore bowhunter are the things I do when I�m in the mountains. I am the only judge of just how hard I hunted, or just how much I pushed myself; whether I really hunt as hard, and as smart as my skills allow. I�m the only one who can make the decisions that make or break my hunt. When it�s all on my shoulders, with an OTC tag in my pocket, I know it�s up to me to make a success of hunt. As a youth hunter, I believe that when you learn to thrive off the challenges bowhunting presents, and learn that the best judge of your character and hunting performance is yourself, you become a better person and find that your limits are much father beyond what you previously thought you could accomplish.

I have always heard more experienced bowhunter�s describe that, as they get older, they find just as much enjoyment in being out; absorbing all the experiences the mountains have to offer. Myself, I think it�s different depending on individual goals. Personally, I find true satisfaction in getting into game, and closing in on my ultimate goal on any given hunt; arrow a P&Y animal. Maybe I need to slow down and �take it all in� more often, but the drive to success is what keeps he going.

For me, it�s beyond hard to describe what I really love about bowhunting, or why I really try and be the best bowhunter I can be; it�s describing the indescribable. Only when you experience the deep-down feeling of being amongst untamed wilderness, with bow in hand and an OTC tag in your pocket will you honestly recognize the passion for which I have for bowhunting.

To all you youth hardcore bowhunter�s (or the aspiring), know that when you learn to push yourself to the highest end of your abilities, that when you know you can create the success you can push yourself to.

�� Keep it in the pocket~

�� Joe [...]

My Goals for the 2008-2009 Season..

michaeledge@bowcast.com — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 02:00:00 +0100

My goal this year is to take a whitetail with my bow. I plan to go in a couple of weeks to shoot a hog with my bow to get ready for the season. I will be going to my hunting camp in grosse tete to hunt both hogs and whitetail. When I hunt hogs I plan to start with a treestand, bit if that does not work I will try and put a spot and stalk. When I am whitetail hunting I will be hunting out of a treestand. Unlike hunting big muleys in the mountains, we cannot spot and stalk because our woods are too thick. My setup this year is a HOYT Avenger set at 60 lbs and 27 1/2 in. draw legnth. I am using G5 sites. I shoot 400gr Easton arrows with 100gr thunderhead browheads. Michael
[...]

Creating you own home bow shop!!!

amaro_jason@hotmail.com — Thu, 26 Jun 2008 02:00:00 +0100

Taking the next step is what Bowcast is all about. Taking the next step, from the average archer to the complete archer is what we are trying to facilitate. For many archers the next step involves becoming your own bow mechanic. If you really want to understand how a bow works you need to start maintaining and fiddling with your own bow.

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Someone can tell you a million times how a bow works but until you start working on your own bow you will never understand all of the intricacies of super-tuning a bow.

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So how do you get started? Well, you can start by gathering the tools needed to make your own little home bow shop. It doesn’t happen overnight, so start with the basics and focus on tools that give you the most for your money. I have created a list of tools below that I use in my home shop. It is impractical to have every tool out there but that is okay, I still go to my local shop called “the Backwoodsman” to get my arrows cut and to shoot the bull with the guys.

Along those same lines even if you do have a home bow shop still support your local archery shops, you can learn a lot just buy listening and watching.

Again below is a list of items that I have and it has served me pretty well. Remember working on a bow isn’t that hard and there aren’t too many things you can do to really mess it up. If you get stuck or are unsure about something post your question on the forums or ask your local pro.

Tool

Notes

Bow Press

Bowmaster press. Cheap and Easy.

Bow Vise

Use it to hold your bow while you are working on it

Bowplane

This tool allows you to check your center shot quickly and makes sure that you don’t have any cam lean. It is quick and easy

Eze-eye

Allows you to center your center but you do have to remove your sight. Will allow to you practice aiming.

Small Scale

You can weigh your entire arrow components to make sure your arrows are consistent in weight.

Paper Tuner

Allows you to Paper Tune your bows and that your arrow is shooting bullet holes.

Arrow Fletcher

To re-fletch your vanes. This allows you to try different combinations of vanes wraps.

Chronograph

You can see how changes in equipment change your KE.

G5 ASD Tool

Allows to you make sure that the inserts are square and your arrows are consistent.

Lighter

For Burning tags ends of string loops or serving ends.

Bow Square

You can use this to give yourself a starting point for setting your nock point and your arrow rest.

Video Camera

You can use this to evaluate your form. Take video from as many angles as possible.

Serving Tools

To reserve your string. You can increase the speed of your bow by decreasing the amount of weight on string.

String Splitter

You can use this to adjust position of your peep sight. Slight adjustment can really make a difference in performance.

White Out to Mark Reference Points

Mark your sight, cams and rest so your have a visual reference point to determine if something has moved.

Leveling Bubbles

You can use these to make sure your arrow is parallel when it is on the rest and you can use them to get your 3rd axis initially set.

4 ft Carpenters Level – 2nd Axis

You can use this to set your 2nd Axis.

Plumb String – 3rd Axis

You can set your 3rd Axis by using a Plumb String

Drop Cloth

Keeps your workstation clean and keeps your bow from getting dings.

Take Care

Jason

[...]

Mangus Bowmen 3-D Shoot and Club News

amaro_jason@hotmail.com — Mon, 05 May 2008 20:00:47 +0100

Many of you know that I live in a pretty remote area of Southwestern New Mexico, this is great for hunting but not so great when it comes to hitting the 3-D circuit. We used to have 3 maybe 4, 2-day shoots in the area, basically, all the people from the desert would come play in the Gila National Forest for the weekend. It was alot of fun because these shoots brought in archers from all over the Southwest. Unfortunately Fire Restrictions, Fuel Prices and a new NM Archery Tour has caused several of the local clubs to relocate there big shoots to a more central area of the state. Well, those are the reasons that are stated, personally I think alot of those clubs got tired of having there butts handed to them by the Silver City Crew :).

While I don't know if I would call Silver City a hot bed of archery I would say that there are alot of really good shooters from the area. In fact, there is shoot along the NM and AZ border that pulls about 2500 shooters every year and there is usually a few side bets going on between the NM and AZ shooters. While, I don't know the exact record I do know that the NM teams usually bring home a PILE of cash. Let me just say it, when it comes to busting foam there are A TON of better archers in my area than me, I would consider myself more of a student of the game, and my 12-ringing buddies would back me on that one.

This is what some of the course looks like. If you click on the picture you will get a larger view.

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This weekend our local bow club, called the Mangus Bowmen, had a shoot to gauge interest in keeping the club going and to see if we had enough resources to hold our annual 2-day shoot in July. On Friday, we setup the course and we really had alot of people show up to help setup, it was great to see everybody pitch in.

To be honest, I wasn't real sure how many shooters were going to show up but that didn't matter. We were going to have fun no matter what the turn out was but after everybody got there we probably had about 60 people.

Here is Jose getting ready to shoot.

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It was Jose's 3rd shoot, so we were shooting REALLY slow but it pays off because I can help him remember the basics and we can HAVE FUN. The guys at the shoot tease us because he is shooting $150 arrows out of a $20 bow. Stella and Marissa showed up a little later and they also busted some foam. The cool part is that Jose and I had already finished and they could have just backed out and not shot but I think Marissa is really enjoying archery.

Jose posing with our arrows.

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Anyway you look at it we had a pretty good Saturday Morning.

If it is brown, it is down.

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After the shoot we got everybody together to figure out what direction the club wanted to go. Well, it looks like we have going to have at least one more 1 day shoot and we will be having our annual 2-day shoot. Oh and I forgot to mention, it look like I am the new Vice-President.

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Some more of the PJ's

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Take Care...

J-

[...]

Off-season Stump Shooting

amaro_jason@hotmail.com — Wed, 09 Apr 2008 07:20:44 +0100

The term "Stump Shooting" is a little misleading, DON'T SHOOT STUMPS you will destroy your arrows. The first time I went stump shooting I quickly learned that you really needed to pick your targets carefully. I went thru 4 arrows in about 30 minutes, it wasn't pretty.

Before you go out and start shooting things, you need to replace your fields points with something like the G5 S.G.H, a rubber blunt or add a adder point behind your field tip. You basically need something that will not penetrate too deeply into your target and that will
“kick-up” and not dig into the dirt.

Personally, I like the S.G.H.'s because I can also use them on rabbits and other small game if they are in season.

Below are some possible head choices

The purpose of Stump Shooting is hone your range estimation skills, hone your shooting skills and get a little exercise. The idea is to walk around in a natural setting, pick a suitable target like a cactus or a pile of grass, try to determine the distance and shoot it.

If it is legal in your area, small cacti like the ones below are great targets.

You can also use a small kickable target like the Kick-N-Shoot from Hips Targets to add a little variation to the game.

If you are getting bored of drilling and killing the same targets get outside and try some stump shooting...

Take Care

J-

[...]

Stefen's First Archery Turkey - Great Job!!!

amaro_jason@hotmail.com — Thu, 03 Apr 2008 08:33:07 +0100

Stefen's Dad, Chris Gomes sent me this story. I it great to hear about a kid take his first animal. The best part is that Stefen really worked at it; he practiced, he put the time in and he made the shot. Stefen great job and thank your dad for taking you hunting. - Take Care Jason

Stefen started helping his dad hunt turkeys when he was seven years old. On his father’s first turkey hunt, he used a push button call to bring three toms in the last 100 yards while his dad positioned himself for the bowshot. Stefen has looked forward to the annual turkey hunt in Nebraska ever since, waiting for the day when he would turn twelve and be able to hunt for his very own bird.

In preparation for his first bowhunt, Stefen shot weekly leagues and as many 3D shoots as possible since the age of seven. He excelled in these competitions and became a very good archer, but still needed to be able to draw the legal minimum of 40 pounds to archery hunt. Finally old and strong enough, a 40-50 pound Mathews Mustang was selected to meet this requirement. Two blade Magnus broadheads were chosen to maximize penetration.

On the first day of the hunt John Cannon, a hunting partner, described the location of a roost he had scouted the prior day. Sneaking into the woods in the dark, Stefen and his dad setup the blind and decoys, and waited, hoping to hear nearby gobbles. When the gobbles came, it was obvious that they were too close, and had actually snuck past the roost in the dark. After flydown the birds went the opposite way, uninterested in the yelps and clucks from the hunter’s setup. Things went better for John, who killed his first archery turkey. After sharing the excitement of John’s success on a mature tom, it was time to setup for the evening hunt.

A large flock of jakes and toms was spotted, and the blind and decoys were moved into position. Another opportunity was blown when the rancher came to work on his fence, but Stefen continued on, undeterred. Later that evening a very large gobbler followed a group of hens and jakes past the blind, with no birds presenting a closer shot than 32 yards. Stefen held back knowing that any shot past 25 yards was too far on such a small vital target.

The next day dawned colder, cloudy and windy. The birds had vanished, and the morning hunt passed without so much as a gobble or a yelp. That evening was much the same, and Stefen and his Dad wondered where the birds had gone. They spent the time calling, glassing, and talking. As darkness neared, they knew the birds would be moving to the roost. With his head out of the top of the blind, Stefen’s dad spotted a large tom suddenly in range!

Afraid that he had scared it, his Dad ducked back into the blind, telling Stefen to get ready. The bird was behind the opening in the blind that Stefen planned to shoot from, but moving closer. Just as it was about to move into the shooting lane, the gobbler turned and walked down into a gully. Stefen’s dad gave a couple of soft clucks, and the lone tom turned back to the decoy setup. Stefen came to full draw, but the bird stopped just out of the lane. Waiting at full draw, he finally had to let down after more than a minute.

With a couple more clucks, the gobbler slowly moved into the opening, and Stefen drew again. Fighting against his racing heart, he settled the gap between his first two pins on the turkey for the 15-yard shot, and the arrow leapt off the bow. The tom dropped immediately at impact.

Ignoring past experience and wisdom gained from previous hunts, Stefen’s Dad excitedly ran out of the blind to recover the bird. The gobbler took flight, flying 75 yards before crashing down across a small river. After wading the river, Stefen had his first archery kill, a beautiful mature tom with an 8-inch beard and 1.25-inch spurs.

[...]

2008 Turkey Season Prep - Part 6 - Ready to Rock

aroney@bowcast.com — Sun, 23 Mar 2008 22:34:02 +0100

T minus 3 days. I got out to the range a few times this weekend. Friday I never even took my bow out of the case because when I got to the range and got out of my truck, the wind picked up and it was miserable. Turned right around and headed back to take some shots in my basement range.

Satruday proved to be some decent weather, so I got out and did rounds with field tips, then my G5 Tekans. All was good. Even shot the Tekans out to 60 yards and was tackin em'! Felt great and I was definitely experiencing the "Range Shooter's High".

Decided to fling a few Magnus Bullheads in case I have the opportunity to take a head shot at a turkey. Noticed I was again consistently low (I expect this becuase of the 25 grain difference), but had also crept back to the right - consistently and frustratingly (Is that a word?).

I decided it was time to try a stiffer arrow to sail those Bullheads - so I picked up a half dozen Gold Tip 7595's, fletched them up with 5 inch feathers, and got back out on the range. To my surprise, the Bullheads on this stiffer arrow were flying dead on left/right, but were WAY high at 20 yards. I flew a couple out at 30 yards and was dead on. Went back to 20 yards, and just needed to aim about 2 inches low with my 20 yd pin, and I was tackin'.

I am dialed in, and heading out to hunt Nebraska later this week. I'll keep my form up in my basement, but this concludes the blog entries on Turkey prep. Hope you all enjoyed it, and I will continue to answer questionsi or comments in the "comments" secion below.

There's nothing left to do but kiss my wife and daughters, pack the blind and my bow, and hope I get into some birds. More as the season progresses!

Shoot Straight (I hope I do)!

Aneal

[...]

2008 Turkey Season Prep - Part 5 - Tactical Turkey Shot Practice

aroney@bowcast.com — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 12:44:09 +0100

As many of you have heard me say on the show "Tactical Practice" is the best kind to get you ready for in the field encounters. I have seen folks on the BowCast blog talk about different methods of "practice" and how to mix it up. I believe in anyone's ala carte menu of different ways to practice (eyes closed, line exercises, vegas faces, 3d etc.), you should have an item to choose for [[tactical]] practice. Often that involves a [[3D]] target and shooting from various typical positions you might encounter in the field.

Yesterday, me and my buddy and his wife went out to the range, and with the anticipation of being in the field with a [[Nebraska]] turkey tag less that 7 days away, we thought we'd get down to some tactical shooting to "fine" tune before we are in the field. For our style of hunting, that involves shooting at a 3D [[turkey]] target, and shooting in a blind, as well as different positions (kneeling on both knees, kneeling on one knee, leaning over to get around tree limbs etc.).

In addition, since we tend to hunt with a mix of broadheads (i.e. I will be carrying both the G5 Tekans and a couple Magnus Bullheads), we alternate arrow shots. This type of [[practice]] is invaluable to build confidence, as well as discovering any "weaknesses" in your form when put into real [[hunting]] situations. Snapped some pics of our session to give you a feel for the setup we were working with.

Thanks to Fatcoyote and PinkIce for joining me in a little "Tactical Turkey Shot Practice"!

Enjoy, and shoot straight!

NOTE: To expand these pictures, first click on the title of this blog entry, then click on the picture. If you click on the picture from the "blogs" page, it will simply take you to the BowCast.com home page - this is a bug we are working on.

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Setting up and shooting out of a blind goes a long way in preparing you for a heart pounding shot at a gobbler in the field.

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Tactical practice is something we should focus on - especially as we get closer to any specific hunting season.

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You can move the 3D target to various angles and distances....you never know, you may just practice the exact angle and distance that mirrors the opportunity that you have at taking an animal in the field.

[...]

Flexibility

dan@sportsmansfitness.com — Tue, 04 Mar 2008 22:34:41 +0100

Flexibility is not the most exciting topic for us sportsmen. We often grow more concerned with our strength and endurance needs and the flexibility piece of the puzzle gets overlooked. If you read the last fitness post on Bowcast concerning proper warm-up, you should recall we introduced the concept of dynamic stretching taking place prior to a workout. Hopefully, you watched the short video to get an idea of the tempo and range of motion each move requires. Flexibility will make you a better bowhunter and getting all of us to work at it will keep us away off the couch this off-season.

[[Flexibility]] is the ability to adapt to different circumstances…to me this is what [[bowhunting]] is all about. You never know what the field will bring you and each day you have to be able to roll with the punches. Lack of flexibility is a recipe for disaster if you’re in the field for days on end, packing a quarter across diverse terrain, or breaking down your harvest. I’ve actually had my flexibility work in my favor while stalking herd bulls, moving my body through interesting positions to avoid detection and hindsight reveals that some of my best trophy animal harvests were sponsored by moderate flexibility.

There’s an amazing benefit in traditional stretch-and-hold stretching when executed properly. You might have heard this type of stretching termed as “static” or “passive” stretching and it does have a role in our off-season conditioning workouts – only when you’ve completed a workout. Why static stretch only at the end of the workout? Well, the body’s muscle tissue is pretty well heated at the end of the workout creating the “warm rubber band” effect in which the muscles are more extensible. If you have fallen victim to static stretching cold before going on a run or gym workout, think about what happens to a rubber band that is placed in cold water, it loses a great deal of its extensibility. In fact, our muscles have a lot of characteristics that of a rubber band, so please save static stretching for a post workout protocol.

Rather than listing off common static stretching moves, I’d like to introduce a new outstanding technique of stretching known as Activated Isolated Stretching (AIS). AIS techniques will undoubtedly make noticeable lengthening progress in your muscles as well improve your overall function. AIS stretching involves an eight to nine foot rope and using it to aid new ranges of motion. You’ll wrap the rope around the arch of your foot and perform a series of moves. The rope will gently assist in pulling the muscle a bit farther than your body would ordinarily allow. You always exhale during the rope assistance portion, enabling you to have a deeper stretch. With AIS you stimulate your muscles to relax and contract through new ranges of motion which encourages your body to reprogram itself to be more flexible.

A piece of advice on AIS, is to be cognizant that you’ve mentally conditioned yourself to believe that you can stretch only to a certain point, usually because you are weak or lack coordination in that area. The beauty of AIS routine is that folks see results quickly and you should find yourself integrating it into your daily routine, especially if you have tight hamstrings and lower back. I encourage a 5 minute AIS routine at the end of your workout and it will in fact double as a great way to [[cool down]]. Enjoy!

AIS Rope [[Hamstring]] Stretch:

Preparation: Lie on your back and wrap the rope around the arch of your foot.

Your Objective: Actively flex your [[quads]] and [[hip flexors]] as you pull the rope back. At your end of range of motion, exhale while you assist the stretch by gently pulling on the rope for a few seconds. Return back to floor and repeat a handful of times.

Notes: Keep your opposite non-working leg straight to the floor while you pull the toes up on the working leg with rope.

You Should Feel It: In your [[hamstrings]] and calves.

AIS Rope Groin Stretch:

Preparation: Lie on your back and wrap the rope around the arch of your foot and loop the rope underneath your leg. Hold the rope with the hand on the same side as your working

Your Objective: Fire your [[glutes]] as you sweep your leg away from your body. When you reach the point of resistance, give the rope a gentle tug. Assist the stretch while you exhale for a few seconds.

Notes: Keep your opposite non-working leg straight while performing the stretches

You Should Feel it: In your [[groin]]

AIS Rope Quad Stretch:

Preparation: Lie on your stomach and wrap the rope around the arch of your foot

Your Objective: Pull the rope over your shoulder as the working leg goes upward. Fire the glute and hamstrings of the working leg to stretch your quad and hip. Pull your hell toward the opposite glute.

Notes: [[Exhale]] while your heel reaches the end range, pause for a few seconds and repeat a handful of times.

You Should Feel It: Quadriceps and Hip Flexors

AIS Rope Shoulder Stretch:

Preparation: While standing, place the rope in your hand and put that hand behind your neck so that your elbow is point up.

Your Objective: Take your other hand behind your lower back as if you were getting hand-cuffed. Grab the rope and let the top hand pull the lower hand upwards and then reverse the movement while having the bottom hand pull the top hand downwards. Repeat a handful of times.

Notes: Avoid jerky movements and remain fluid through the stretches.

You should Feel It: Shoulders, Lats, and Triceps

Rookie: Add one day a week of a 3-6 mile run at a 10-min mile pace

Varsity: Add “Helen” to your workouts once a week

http://www.crossfit.com/cf-info/excercise.html#Girls

Pro: Add “Crossfit Total” to your workout once a week

http://www.crossfit.com/cf-info/excercise.html#Girls

[...]

Turkey vids are here!

aroney@bowcast.com — Wed, 27 Feb 2008 09:16:40 +0100

The BowCast team will be posting a number of videos on BowCast.com dedicated to Turkey hunting - setups and equipment. These are bonus videos and won't necessarily go to iTunes, so check the video section of BowCast.com frequently over the next several weeks to review these informational videos. The first one is up there, and we cover ground blinds:

http://www.bowcast.com/content/blogcategory/22/61/

Enjoy and Shoot Straight!

Aneal

Sleeping Pads

south@eastmans.com — Tue, 26 Feb 2008 22:49:53 +0100

Besides providing a more comfortable nights' sleep, sleeping pads provide another important function; insulation. I vividly recall one bivouac trip I made. In an effort to shave a couple of pounds or so off of my packs weight I decided to leave my pad at home. Several hours into the night, with chattering teeth I realized what that second function was. Since that time, technology and innovation has reduced the weight and bulk, now providing several options at around and just under a pound.

The closed cell foam pads offer the lightest option at just under a pound, but doesn't provide quite as much cushion or insulation as the self inflating models. For cold weather camping the insulation factor becomes more important. Cost is about $20-$40 depending on if you buy one of the blue foamies at Wal-Mart or a fancier one at a backpacking store. If you are short on space in your pack, keep in mind that you may save a little weight, but you pay for it in bulk.

For the past couple of years I've been using the Therm-a-rest Prolite 3, a full length ultra light inflatable pad. I've been really happy with it, but recommend carrying a patch kit if you are hunting in rocky terrain. I really wouldn't recommend sleeping straight on the ground with this pad, use a tarp or ground cloth if you are not using a bivy or a tent. It weighs in at 1 pound 4 ounces and sells for about $80 bucks. You can save 7 ounces and go with the shorter version, but I've found I don't sleep well when my heels are resting on the ground. This phenomena, when I shared with my hunting partner, I was later soundly cursed for. The following year his pack weighed 7 ounces more after I'd pointed out my problem, he suddenly became acutely aware of his sore heels as well.

A company I just became aquainted with at the Outdoor Retailers Show last month is Pacific Outdoor Equipment. They make a plethora of sleeping pads-- foam, inflatable and hybrids. They have some pretty slick designs, check them out @ pacoutdoor.com

Another option for an inflatable is the Thermo Lite by Insul Mat. It weighs about an ounce less than the full length Prolite and will save you about $15 bucks.

The next blog I'll cover stoves. Give me a shout and let me know if there are some specifics that you'd like to see covered, I'd be happy to cover it...just post a comment to this blog entry with what you are interested in.

-South

[...]

Britney Spears prefers 7 inches

aroney@bowcast.com — Sun, 17 Feb 2008 20:18:24 +0100

As I am getting ready to slip into a new bow, I have been contemplating the change I am going to be making to my brace height - which is currently 7 inches on my Hoyt VTec. I am moving into a 6 inch brace height - so, it has me thinking...is the speed really worth it?

As I thought through this, I realized it might be worth sharing a few considerations and a definition around [[brace height]] on a bow.

Brace height is the [[perpendicular]] distance from the bowstring to the pivot point of the handle. This height is an important part of [[bow tuning]]. Contrary to popular opinion, changing the brace height does not change bow weight. But changing brace height does dramatically affect how a bow performs.

On average, each .5 inches in brace height affects velocity by approximately 2.5 [[feet per second]] (fps). Bottom line, the shorter the brace height, the faster the bow. So, I am gaining about 3 fps in speed on my new bow, but how do I measure what I am losing in "forgiveness"?

A lower brace height means the string is further away from the archer before he or she draws the bow. As a result, the distance the string travels to reach the full draw position is longer. The larger the brace height, the shorter the distance the string has to travel to reach the same draw length.

So what is the effect pn arrow flight of a higher brace height? The best way to imagine this is if you hold an arrow by the nock parallel to the floor, and ask a buddy to push the point to the side a couple of inches, it would be an easy taks to say the least. But if you were to hold the shaft half way down, your buddy would require a little more pressure to move the point to the side.

It is the same effect as with torquing the bow. The less the amount of string (meaning the higher the brace height) behind the cam at full draw requires more pressure to force the cams to push the end of the string out of line.

So, when looking at a bow setup to match your shooting - the fine balance is between speed and forgivenes - shorter brace height is faster shot speed, however, without proper form, you will have a harder time acheiving tight groups and overall accuracy. I have spent several years shooting a bow with a 7 inch brace height while I continued to work on my form. With my short draw length, I am ready to get the additional speed from a shorter brace height. I do realize that it will be a tough first couple of weeks shooting that new [[Katera]], but I am ready for the challenge.

My recommendation is to shoot a bow that is very close to having a 7 inch brace height. When you are confident with that setup, look to increase your speed by going with a bow that has a lower brace height. Welcome the challenge that your form needs to be in order to handle a bow with a lower brace height.

So, I ask you all out there in BowCast land - do you go for speed or forgiveness? And regardless of what you choose....I'd love to hear why.

PS - I am confident that Brittany is going to be happy with my decision to shoot 6 inches. It's not the length of your brace height, but whether or not you can hit the spot ;-)

Shoot Straight!

Aneal

[...]

Proper Warm Up - Video Illustration

dan@sportsmansfitness.com — Sun, 17 Feb 2008 13:49:31 +0100

The video below is an addendum to my last post. I described in text some of the dynamic movements for warm-up. On the video below, you can view what these dynamic movements actually look like when being performed.

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Proper Warm Up

dan@sportsmansfitness.com — Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:52:47 +0100

One of the most abused or overlooked components of working out is taking the time to incorporate a proper warm-up. Instead of jumping right into a gut busting workout or half heartedly performing a few static stretches, try integrating a proper dynamic warm-up. This is the only way to prepare your body for the demands that a workout may have on you and decrease your chance of injury. The first part of a warm-up is heating your body which simultaneously increases your respiratory rate, blood flow, oxygen, which will enhance delivery of nutrients to your body's cells. This ultimately notifies your body's systems that some demanding work is approaching.

Once you've obtained a light sweat in a short time via a few calisthenics or rope jumping, you're then ready to move onto the dynamic stretching portion of your warm-up. This involves slowly performing the same kinds of movements you'll be making in your workout, and gradually increasing your speed. As specific muscles, tendons, and joints follow the movement patterns they'll be expected to complete later, they become used to the movement, and less likely to tear when the movements are made at higher speeds. This stage also works as a cue for your nervous system to switch on the specific neuromuscular connections it need for those movement patterns.

Lastly, this two-stage warm-up helps you to prepare mentally for coming workout. Regardless of what that workout, might be, you'll do it better, and enjoy it more, if you're able to bring your full focus into it by taking the time to warm-up properly.

Benefits of a Proper Warm Up:

Increased Muscle TemperatureBlood Vessels Dilate Improve Efficient Cooling Increased Blood Temperature Improved Range of Motion Hormonal Changes Mental Preparation

CALISTHENIC MOVEMENTS:

JUMP ROPE

PRISONER SQUATS

¨ Your Objective: Athlete should stand with feet wider than shoulders, hands behind the head with interlocked fingers, sit back while bending at the knees, shins stay vertical, and weight on heels. Your tempo should be fairly fast (1-0-1)¨ Where you should feel it: Your quadriceps should start to fill up with blood.¨ Goal: Perform 10 repetitions before moving onto Jumping Jacks.

WIDE OUTS

¨ Your Objective: Begin in a squat position with the knees together. While in squat position, jump and open legs past shoulder width. Feet stay pointed forward and the head should not change height. Return to the initial position and repeat.¨ Where you should feel it: Your quadriceps will undoubtedly!¨ Goal: Perform as many touches as possible over the course of ten seconds before heading right into Gate Swings

GATE SWINGS

¨ Your Objective: Begin in the squat position with the knee together. Stay in the squat, jump and open the legs feet and knees point out. Focus is the stretch across the groin muscles, head stays level¨ Where you should feel it: Your quadriceps and groin.¨ Goal: Perform 10 full repetitions before heading right into Mt. Climbers.

MOUNTAIN CLIMBERS

¨ Your Objective: Begin in the push-up position. Jump only one foot forward on the inside of the elbows. On the return of that foot, the other foot then alternates into forward position. Focus on low hips and executing full hip flexion and extension¨ Where you should feel it: Your core will be fired the entire time as well as your hip flexors and quadriceps.¨ Goal: Perform 10 repetitions each leg before heading right into

GROINERS

¨ Your Objective: Begin in the push-up position. Jump only one foot forward on the outside of the elbows. On the return of that foot, the other foot then alternates into forward position. Focus on low hips and executing full hip flexion and extension¨ Where you should feel it: Your core will be fired the entire time as well as your hip flexors and quadriceps.¨ Goal: Perform 10 repetitions each leg before heading right into Dynamic Stretching

DYNAMIC MOVEMENT VIDEO

Video will be in next blog post.

HAND WALKS or INCH WORMS

¨ Your objective: To build stability in the shoulder and core. Also to lengthen the hamstrings, calves and muscles of the lower back. Start by placing your legs legs straight, hands on floor. Proceed by keeping legs straight and belly button drawn in, walk your hands out. Still keeping your legs straight, walk feet back up to your hands. Repeat. Walk back up to your hands taking baby steps using only the ankles ("ankle steps"). Don't use the knees, hips or quads.¨ Where you should feel it: a stretch in the hamstrings, lower back, glutes, calves and front of the shins.¨ Goal: Perform at least 4 full inch worms unless more is requiredINVERTED HAM STRINGS ¨ Your objective: To improve hamstring flexibility and balance and dynamic pillar stabilization. Starting Position: Balance on your left foot with perfect posture (tummy tight, shoulders back and down). Procedure: Bending at the waist, maintaining perfect posture, grab the left foot with your right hand, extending right leg back as you fire the right glute. (You might find it easier to extend forward with both hands rather than grabbing a foot.) Your shoulder and heel should move as one, forming a straight line. Take a step back at the end of each rep as you alternate legs. Your body should be in a straight line from ear to ankle. Keep the back and pelvis flat! Someone should be able to place a broomstick snugly across your back. ¨ Where you should feel it: a stretch in the hamstrings.¨ Goal: Perform at least 5 fluid repetitions each leg

WALKING LUNGE GROIN, HAM, & HIP

¨ Your objective: To improve flexibility in the hips, hamstrings, lower back, torso, groin, hip flexors and quads. Start by taking a large step forward with the right leg, as if doing a lunge. Place and support weight on the left hand even with the right foot. Take the right elbow and reach down to your instep (forward leg) while keeping the back knee off the ground. Move the right hand outside the right foot and push hips straight to the sky, pulling the toe up toward the shin. Keep the back knee off the ground. Exhale as you reach the elbow to the floor. At the end, make sure both hands remain in contact with the ground as you lift hips and pull toe toward the shin.¨ Where you should feel it: a stretch in the back leg's hip flexor and front leg's glute. During the second part, you should feel a stretch in the front hamstring and calf.¨ Goal: Perform at least 4 full repetitions each leg unless more is required

WORKOUT:

ROOKIES:

Perform new dynamic warm-up three different bouts a week coupled with 15-20 minutes of light body weight strength training. IE 3 sets of maximum body weight repetitions of pull-ups, push-ups, sit-ups, lunges, squats, and back extensions. Perform cardio by trying something different than your usual workout IE incorporate elliptical, stairmaster, hike with a pack, snow-shoe, jump rope, play basketball, etc

VARSITY:

Perform new dynamic warm-up before workout bouts coupled with hard cardio 3x per week. In addition to your own workouts, integrate a 3,000 meter workout on the rower for time. One workout to integrate weekly is to bench your bodyweight for max reps, deadlift your body weight for max reps, and perform pull-ups for max reps.

PROS:

Perform the Crossfit "Fran" workout and record your time. Fran is bouncing back and forth between "Thrusters" (Barbell front squat to an overhead press) and pull-ups. Three rounds of each at 21 reps, 15 reps, and 9 reps. Make sure your squats are to parallel and that your presses and pull-ups involve full range of motion. There is no room for rest when doing this bad boy! Post your time if you dare!

[...]

Lightweight Sleeping Bags

south@eastmans.com — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 07:00:08 +0100

One of the bulkiest items on your gear list for a [[bivy]] hunt is probably your sleeping bag. If it has not been replaced in the last couple of years, chances are you can not only shave off some weight, but also significantly reduce the bulk. Almost all of the major sleeping bag manufacturers are offering sub 2 pound 3 season down bags now. Some have reduced the weight down to as little as a single pound and can be stuffed into a sack half the size of a nerf football. For my early season hunts in August and the first week of September I like a bag rated at about 30-35 degrees. Any later in the high country and you are increasingly flirting with the chances of sub-freezing temperatures. For those hunts I drop down to a 20 degree rating. Some of my favorite bags are from Western Mountaineering, Marmot, Mountain Hardware and Feathered Friends.

Down is graded by measuring how many [[cubic inches]] it takes to weigh one ounce. A 600 fill is 600 cubic inches per ounce. Several things to keep in mind as you shop for a featherweight bag is the higher quality the [[down]], the lighter the weight and the better the insulation it provides. You should be looking for a minimum of 700-fill-power, with 800-900 being preferred. The difference between a 600 and a 800-fill-power bag of the same temperature rating can be over half a pound. The higher the number, the greater the loft and compatibility for the same fill weight.

For a 30-40 degree bag I'd recommend saving a few ounces and go with a half length zipper. Chances are you are not going to get too hot with the higher rating. If your budget will only allow the acquisition of one new bag, but your hunts cover the early August to late September time frame, I'd recommend going with a 20 bag with a full length zipper. You'll be a little warm in the earlier part of the season, but will be able to unzip to help regulate body heat. I made the mistake of sleeping in a 20 degree bag in Nevada with a half length zipper and roasted every night. Marmot has a bag that is rated at 40 degrees and only weighs a featherweight 1 pound. This would be a great bag for warmer climates in the early season. You can pack a long a set of silk or polypropelene thermals and buy a few extra degrees of comfort.

While you might be tempted to find a really roomy bag for greater comfort, keep in mind dead spots mean cold spots. The more contoured the bag the warmer it is going to be. Draft tubes, like baffled collars, help keep heat from escaping on lower temperature bags. Many of the bags are made in a couple or more different lengths so you won't have to be carrying any more weight than necessary. The shell of the bags are made from many different materials. Some are designed to save maximum weight, some for durability and others for maximum [[waterproofing]].

The first thing I do when I buy a new bag is get another stuff sack one size smaller than the one provided. I've found I can reduce the bulk by at least 25% or more. Don't leave your bag in the stuff sack for extended periods as the down will eventually loose its loft and thus its insulating ability after extended periods of compression.

[...]

Colorado - Emergency Feeding Operations in the Gunnison Basin

aroney@bowcast.com — Fri, 08 Feb 2008 22:46:19 +0100

BowCast brothers and sisters,

Please don't take this as a solicitation, but I thought I would share with you the emergency feeding operation that is going on in SW Colorado. They have had many feet of snow down there this winter, and the Colorado Division of Wildlife (CDOW) is rallying with some emergency feed operations to take care of the wildlife in that corner of the state .

For those of you have hunted SW Colorado, you know it is some of the finest hunting around. If there is anything you can do to help this effort, please don't hesitate to take some action. I have included an email I received from Jim Bulger at the CDOW. Jim runs Colorado's Hunter Outreach, Women in the field, and Youth Mentor hunting programs. He doesn't ask for anything unless it is truly important. Please read below.

Ok folks,

I have asked a lot of you as Huntmasters and you have always responded. Maybe still my old Colonel background, but I know when I ask the “troops” to go just one more mile, they respond. So here goes.

The feeding operations in the Gunnison Basin and other parts of the state are ongoing and looks like may run for several more months. We need help finding ways to pay for the hay and feed we are putting out to the critters as the budget just does not allow for this much effort. But the critters need us and we need to reach out and find folks to help. The boss sent out a detailed report on the current operation and I cut out a piece of it for you to see the magnitude of the situation:

Currently we are feeding at 106 sites (up from 95 last week) and are feeding 6,522 deer 391 bags daily (up), 538 antelope 32 bags daily (down), and 2,594 elk 11+ tons of hay daily (up). We are not seeing much in mortality other than in antelope. The W Mountain pronghorn have not taken to feed well and we are seeing mortality in that group.

A big job for some dedicated volunteers and employees of the DOW. So here is the request:

I have put the link about the feeding operation on this email. I know some of you work for pretty good sized corporations and others have folks who know folks who have money to help this effort. I need you to go ask them to consider making donations to the feeding effort. You can use all the tools you have as far as your great ability to convince a drowning man to take a drink but figure out a way to convince them to get on board the effort to make a difference.

I do not have much in the way of providing them with more than a handshake and a thanks for their donation but I will be glad to champion the best recognition I can for them. I gotta believe there are firms out there that are looking to make a positive difference and this is just the ticket.

Ok gang, nuff said. I need your help. Email or call me if you have questions.

Jim

Weblink to the feeding page.

http://wildlife.state.co.us/WildlifeSpecies/EmergencyFeedingOperation2008.htm

Shoot Straight!

Aneal

[...]

Gibble, Gibble, Gobble.....

aroney@bowcast.com — Thu, 31 Jan 2008 00:51:21 +0100

Gobble, Gobble, Gibble...I wish Turkey only cost a nickel!

Winter still has it's hold on us here in [[Colorado]], but, that doesn't prevent me from thinking ahead to the spring [[Turkey]] seasons here in the west. Who is with me? I can't wait to pack up my blind, my bow, some new and cool [[broadheads]] for birds, and get out on the river bottom and chase those wiley creatures around!

With that, you will hear a number of episodes dedicated to Turkey hunting spattered throughout the next several weeks on BowCast. Please keep your questions and comments coming....we will try and address them all. In the meantime, we'd love to hear from all of you and what you are doing here in mid-winter to get ready for Turkey season!

Shoot Straight!

Aneal

[...]

Anthony's 2007 Mule Deer

aroney@bowcast.com — Thu, 20 Dec 2007 07:29:15 +0100

2007 was a great year for the Full Moon Productions team. The following deer that Anthony harvested will be show cased in a feature article in "Western Hunting Magazine" in the summer of 2008. In addition, you all will be able to catch the footage of this hunt on the next DVD from FMP in summer of 2008. As always, Anthony wanted to give our BowCast community a sneak peek at this very awesome buck.

Anthony shot this buck at 61 yards with a 12 degree cut. The deer was shot on 10/22/2007 at 9:10 AM and recovered at 5:20 PM the same day. The deer scores 190 4/8 inches.

{multithumb}{multithumb} [...]

Turkey Harvest out of Double Bull Blind

aroney@bowcast.com — Fri, 30 Nov 2007 08:25:09 +0100

I was dusting off some old video, and found this gem. I took this jake out of my double bull in Nebraska back in 2005. If you have never seen a flock of turkeys fighting to establish pecking order, this is a great view.

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