Blog Entries tagged 'back country'

Matt-MSR Hyperflow Gear Review

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Sun, 02 Nov 2008 01:00:00 +0100

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Gear Review- MSR Hyperflow

I will be doing a number of gear reviews in my blog and this one�covers the MSR Hyperflow water filter.� I�will be posting a few more gear reviews in the coming months as I�evaluate some of the new gear I used this season.�

Growing up I was introduced to backpacking at a young age.� We would filter our water from the alpine lakes for cooking but drink straight from the mountain springs and small streams.� I never once�got sick�and up until this year I have never carried a water filter on a backcountry hunt.� I�hunt near streams or springs that have a very low risk of containing harmful amounts of protozoa, bacteria, and viruses; however, it only takes one bad water source and�I could have gotten sick from any of these�disease-causing microorganisms. �I consider myself lucky that I have never gotten sick.� Weight and space were also a factor as I didn't want to pack the extra weight of my backpacking water filter, the MSR Miniworks EX, and I always carried backup iodine water tablets in my hunting pack.

This year I started hunting some new areas and I didn't want to worry about the water quality or where I would have to get it from.� I knew MSR was coming out with a new lightweight filter so I waited until they hit the shelf and purchased one after looking it over in the store and talking to the sales representative who had used one.� I discussed with him the concerns I had of clogging and durability which were the main complaints I had been reading about online and he reassured me that I would have no problems.

My first weekend of archery season this year was a 3 day solo bivy hunt where I put the Hyperflow to the test to see if it truly deserved a place in my Badlands.� I evaluated it on size and weight, ease of use, flow rate, and clogging.� I will discuss each of these factors and rate them on a scale of 1-10.

This filter is light on the scale and I gave it a 9 on size and weight.� This filter is the size of a small bike pump at 7 x 3.5 inches and weighs only 7.4 ounces!� I found it to be very easy to pack in the little pouch provided and it was not an item that took up unnecessary space in my Badlands.� This is one of the biggest benefits as size and ounces are critical when trying to keep your pack under 35 pounds for a 3 day hunt like I was.� To keep the weight down more I eliminated the velcro straps on top of the pre-filter and don't pack the quick connect bottle adapter.� After using this filter on a few hunts I don't ever think the Miniworks EX will hit the trail again as it is 16 ounces.

To use this filter is quick and painless so I pumped out a 9.5 on ease of use.� There is a clean side cover for the outlet spout which is to protect the spout from contamination.� After quickly removing the cover, you can either use the quick connect bottle adapter or pump right into your hydration bag like I did.� Then simply place the pre-filter into the cleanest water available and start pumping like you would with a bike pump.�

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Clean side outlet is what I am holding in my hand.

I used a two inch piece of the tubing and the Camelback Hydrolink filter adapter which allows you to quickly remove your bite valve and connect the filter.� After bleeding the line, I could simply pump my hydration bag full without the hassle of unpacking and then repacking.� Since my hydration bag is one of the heaviest items in my pack I keep it against my back and in the main compartment.� Before I had this filter, I had to unpack everything that was organized around my hydration bag, pull it completely out of my pack, and then try to fill it up in a spring or creek without filling it full of pine needles and leaves from the brush or water.� Now I simply attach the filter to my hydration line, keep my backpack on, fill it up to the desired level, reattach the bite valve, and continue hunting.

If you don't have a filter adapter then you can also use the quick connect bottle adapter.� This connects to the filter on the clean side and screws on most hydration bags or Nalgene type water bottles.

This filter doesn't drip it rips so I gave it a 9.5 in flow rate.� It comes with a pre-filter that floats on the water and has a large amount of surface area that provides an ample water supply.� This is evident by the approximate 20 strokes per liter giving it an approximate�3 liter per minute flow rate.� I would count my pumps so that I could estimate how much water I had transported to my hydration bag and know when to stop.� In comparison the Miniworks EX has a 1 liter per minute flow rate, a substantial difference.� This pre-filter will stop the larger debris from clogging the main hollow fiber filter and, just as manufactures always advise, I would try to place it in the cleanest water available to maximize the life of the filter.

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One thing I did was to remove the velcro straps that are on top of the pre-filter as I didn't see a need for them and they kept it from sitting flat on the water which is important so you don't suck in air while filtering.� The only issue I had while filtering the first few times was that I would occasionally pull the pre-filter off the water and suck in a little air.� To keep from doing this I would put it in a calmer portion of the creek so it wouldn't float away and then tilt up at an angle because it was at the end of its line.� Also I moved the part of the pump with my hydration line and kept the inflow line as steady as possible.�

I haven't had this filter clog or slow down once so I gave it a 9.� I didn't give it a 10 because I'm sure I could have clogged it in some of the muddy waters of the elk wallows I saw this year but I don't know anyone who would filter water from a mud bath pit.� Also the water that I filter from is usually very clean and clear so I'm sure there are some areas that have murky water with lots of sand or silt that could cause a clog or reduction in flow for this or any other filter.� I have never had any issues with a clogged filter and I always try to find the cleanest water source to prevent these types of issues.� If the filter does clog there is a quick backflush process that should clear it.� To maintain the filter and flow�MSR recommends backflushing every 8 liters.� Pick your puddles wisely if you have to use them as a last resort.

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The Hyperflow retails for around $100 and is effective against protozoa and bacteria.� It will not filter out taste like a ceramic filter will, such as the Miniworks EX, or chemicals/toxins.� In the areas I hunt the water tastes great but if this is a concern just take a pack of Wilderness Athlete Hydrate and Recover to mix in and this filter will work great for you.� Overall I found this to be a perfect backcountry hunting filter that I will now be carrying in my pack until something new comes out that tops its effectiveness and size.� For more information go to http://www.msrgear.com/watertreatment/hyperflow.asp and learn more about this product.

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Living the Essence - Hardcore

joeedge@bowcast.com — Tue, 23 Sep 2008 02:00:00 +0100

Living the Essence; Hardcore Bowhunting

Peers ask me all the time, �Why do you like bowhunting so much? All it is, is shooting animals.� I just have to smirk the comment off, because I know that bowhunting is something that is kindled deep in the heart of a person who wants a challenge; to be responsible, respectful and rejuvenated by all that nature has to offer. Some people say that �If you haven�t already done it, you never will.� I tend to disagree; however, if you really want to be a hardcore bowhunter, all it takes is for someone to plant the seed. From that point on, bowhunting is one of those things that people will either grow apart from, whereas the true hardcore bowhunter will find themselves obsessed by mystique of the bow and arrow. I am of the later.

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There are many things in life that I have tried, each with their individual successes and failures; however, there is one thing that I simply cannot let go. I�ve loved doing other things just as much; it�s just that bowhunting and I go hand in hand. Not a day goes by when I don�t think of a big velvet buck, or a big bull running in to my setup and screaming, a stick�s toss away. I can be working through a math problem in school, or sitting in the bullpen at a baseball game, however my thoughts revolve about arching the bow back on a trophy animal.

Being 18 years old, it seems that adult always look down upon me, whether it be in the shop, or on the range. They don�t truly believe in the capabilities of the hardcore youth bowhunter. I would agree and say they are few and far between, but I am one of them. As the clich� goes, I eat, sleep and dream bowhunting. From the many bowhunting publications in every reading spot in the house, to the hunting DVD collection that far outnumbers chart-topping comedies. There�s more camo in my closet than all the shirts and pants. I have a spot for my backpack, bivy sack and bow case right next to my bed. It�s a commonality for me to carry one, if not two pairs of binos in my car, �just in case�. No matter the occasion you can find me in a camo hat. However, that�s not where you can decipher the difference between the weekend warrior and the true hardcore bowhunter.

It�s not about how many hunting decals I can fit on the back of my car (although I do have about 20), or how much game I can spit, BS�in down at the pro shop; It�s about what I do, out there where it really counts. The real things that make me a hardcore bowhunter are the things I do when I�m in the mountains. I am the only judge of just how hard I hunted, or just how much I pushed myself; whether I really hunt as hard, and as smart as my skills allow. I�m the only one who can make the decisions that make or break my hunt. When it�s all on my shoulders, with an OTC tag in my pocket, I know it�s up to me to make a success of hunt. As a youth hunter, I believe that when you learn to thrive off the challenges bowhunting presents, and learn that the best judge of your character and hunting performance is yourself, you become a better person and find that your limits are much father beyond what you previously thought you could accomplish.

I have always heard more experienced bowhunter�s describe that, as they get older, they find just as much enjoyment in being out; absorbing all the experiences the mountains have to offer. Myself, I think it�s different depending on individual goals. Personally, I find true satisfaction in getting into game, and closing in on my ultimate goal on any given hunt; arrow a P&Y animal. Maybe I need to slow down and �take it all in� more often, but the drive to success is what keeps he going.

For me, it�s beyond hard to describe what I really love about bowhunting, or why I really try and be the best bowhunter I can be; it�s describing the indescribable. Only when you experience the deep-down feeling of being amongst untamed wilderness, with bow in hand and an OTC tag in your pocket will you honestly recognize the passion for which I have for bowhunting.

To all you youth hardcore bowhunter�s (or the aspiring), know that when you learn to push yourself to the highest end of your abilities, that when you know you can create the success you can push yourself to.

�� Keep it in the pocket~

�� Joe [...]

Scouting Parts 2 and 3

joeedge@bowcast.com — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 02:00:00 +0100

Elk

For elk, the 3 major areas I concentrate on are;

1) Quality Forage, Shelter and Water - This is number one; simply put elk are big animals and if you don’t have the food, shelter and water to support them, so simply won’t find them in that area. There needs to be a big supply of quality forage, especially if you’re looking to find a good size herd, ample quantity of quality food for the animal.

Generally during the western elk seasons the weather will be warm, and you can count on the elk looking for somewhere cool, and shady for them to bed up in during the heat of the day. Look for north slopes and heavily-timbered pockets to find these cool conditions.

Water is another ingredient that elk need every day, especially bulls due to the fact they are tending their cows, and on the move all day. Even small seeps are a place to find elk sneaking into.

2) Critters of Habit – It seems as though every year the weather might be different, you might be shooting different arrows and wearing different camo but the elk don’t care. They will always be in the same spots, or close by. It’s also a good idea to look for areas like this by the sign; trees with different aged scars from rubs, and rubs that have been rubbed over the season prior. When you have good habitat, elk will return to it.

3) Rutting Remnants- This is very important; you must remember, you don’t care where the elk are now, rather, where they’ll be when you have a valid tag in your pocket. Look for big rubs, both new and old. Look for areas where a bull would feel comfortable wallowing. Elk rut in certain areas and that’s where you need to be come September.

Pronghorn

Here is what I look for, when scouting for goats;

1) Quantity vs. Quality – Here in Oregon, with the pronghorn tag I hunt, it’s very tough to find a quantity of goats. Before you do your scouting, it’s best to do research and find out whether it’s an accomplishment to simply stick a doe, or if you should hold out for a P&Y buck. You then need to factor in your personal standards of what type of animal you’re looking for, and match the two.

2) Water – The obvious answer is to find a good waterhole, however there is more to finding just any waterhole and plopping out your blind. I am quite picky about the waterholes I choose to hunt from because, first, I need to make sure there isn’t any cattle traffic. I have found that if there is a lot of cow traffic the goats are more likely just to by-pass the waterhole and head to the next pothole for water. The next thing is to find a waterhole the goats will come to, and feel comfortable doing so. What is the point if the goats come in spooky, and head on, drink for a few seconds then sprint away, you’ll get no shot. Look for tracks in the fresh mud around the hole, goats are very much, creatures of habit. Pick a “usual” drinking hole for the best blind success.

3) Long Range – It is very important to use your big glass, 12 power and up to a spotting scope to do your pronghorn scouting. Watch from afar. Pattern your buck, and his herd from a vantage point. They are super weary and in an area with few goats and a lot of pressure, ruining your hunt before it starts if a very real possibility.

Another quick thought, when you go out in the woods, take your bow, do as much shooting as you can in the terrain you’ll be hunting before it actually counts. Throw on some judo’s and go to work, pine cones, tufts of grass, or even the occasional sage rat. Practice now, makes perfect later.

Most of all, when scouting use common sense. If you have a feeling there is bucks there, and you have seen them there, then be smart and try and glass them up rather than going in and kicking a big buck in his bedroom. Know that when you see rub after rub reaching up high on a lodgepole that rutting activity will more than likely occur there, so why scent it up more than you have to.

My thought is that scouting is the time to be conservative, and do as much as you can without animal contact. When the time comes to stick an arrow into that animal you have watched for weeks, he’ll have his guard down just as much as he did when you spotted him the first time.

Joe

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My 2007 Goat Hunt - Some Like it HOT!!!

amaro_jason@hotmail.com — Thu, 05 Jun 2008 18:01:56 +0100

Hey Everybody... All this talk about Antelope hunting really has me ready to get chasing some speed goats. Below is the story of my 2007 NM Antelope hunt. I wish I would have taken better pictures but when I dropped him it was AFRICA hot and I wanted to get him cooled down ASAP.

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Let me first say that I was very grateful and lucky to have the opportunity to hunt. My dad had been in the hospital with an infection and so I needed to be around just in case things got little more serious but my dad said I wasn't a doctor so I should go and chase some goats. Tommy, my hunting buddy from Gila Wilderness Hunting had an elk hunting client in the same unit a fews years earlier and he had seen some good goats so we had a good idea where to star. I was going to be hunting alone and this was this first tag I had ever drawn, so this was going to be a learning experience.

The plan was to try and spot and stalk in the morning while I was working my way to a tank. Once I got to the tank I would setup my blind and wait one out. On ther way to my hunting area there were goats all over the place. After setting up camp I went straight to bed. As usual the morning came WAY too early, and I hate mornings.

When I got to my general area I started seeing goats right away. I glassed this group of goats from about a mile and I my stalk was ON. I got to within 90 yards before they busted me. I was using a decoy and a call to try to get them to come in but the timing was just wrong, they didn't give me the time of day.

On a previous trip, I had found a hidden tank that had some sign around it so I was hoping that something was feeding or watering around it. So I parked my rig and "stalked the tank". When I peeked over the dam this little guy was feeding about 30 yards way. He was well within my range but I decided to pass. It was too early in the hunt to let my Silver Flame eat.

With temperatures well above 95 degrees, It was starting to become obvious that the only way I was going to get one of these suckers on the ground was to either get one to come to me or wait one out. So I made a beeline for a tank that I wanted to sit. While working my way to my tank I came across a ton of elk. I was able to get these pictures but there was probably about 75 in the herd. It was pretty neat to see these guys in such open country.

My sit in the blind started started at noon, it had to be an honest 100 degrees plus in there. Let me say that I don't strip down for anybody, not even my wife but DAMN it was just crazy hot. I completely stripped down to my AC/DC Boxers and my Danner boots. Sitting in my blind I must have looked like the white filling in a Little Debbie Cup Cake. If I saw a buck coming in I would quickly put on my black T-shirt so the antelope wouldn't see me.

At 3:30, a buck came in downwind of my setup and busted me. The funny things is he just ran around my blind until he got out of my scent stream then came in to the tank. It looked that after only 3.5 hours in my pressure cooker that I was going to get a shot. I wish I had a great story about why I missed but I just blew it. When I setup my blind I range the area before I setup my blind. I didn't to take the time get a second reading from my rangefinder after I settled in. I miss judged the distance by 10 yards. I held for 40 yards and he was at 54 yards.

Sitting alone in a blind gives you a lot of time to think and the only thing I could think about was that I had a chance and I blew it. I was just hoping and praying that I would have another chance.

YEEEEE HAAAW!!!!!!!!! ANTELOPE DOWN!!!! Well it happened, with about 30 minutes left of shooting light I had a buck come to the tank. His body language was much different than the earlier buck and it was obvious that he was committed to water. It was just up to me to make the shot. He seemed to be watering forever, but once he stopped he turned broadside and my arrow was on the way. All I have to say is the combination of my Hoyt bow, FMJ's and Silver Flame broadheads is scary. At 53 yards my arrow blew right thru his shoulders and pinned him to the ground. He was down and out but I just wanted to make sure that I got another arrow into him, the second arrow cut his spine in half. GAME OVER. Below is a picture of my setup and if you look to the left of the blind about 4 feet above the water you can see my buck.

With the temperatures ranging around 95 degrees I needed to get this goat gutted and processed asap. Tommy always gives me a hard time about not taking good photos but pictures are the least of my worries when I harvest an animal. SOOO I was not able to get any field photos other than with my phone but I did take some photos at the taxidermist (to bleach the skull). He is a pretty good buck he is 14 inches.

Take Care

J-

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Sleeping Pads

south@eastmans.com — Tue, 26 Feb 2008 22:49:53 +0100

Besides providing a more comfortable nights' sleep, sleeping pads provide another important function; insulation. I vividly recall one bivouac trip I made. In an effort to shave a couple of pounds or so off of my packs weight I decided to leave my pad at home. Several hours into the night, with chattering teeth I realized what that second function was. Since that time, technology and innovation has reduced the weight and bulk, now providing several options at around and just under a pound.

The closed cell foam pads offer the lightest option at just under a pound, but doesn't provide quite as much cushion or insulation as the self inflating models. For cold weather camping the insulation factor becomes more important. Cost is about $20-$40 depending on if you buy one of the blue foamies at Wal-Mart or a fancier one at a backpacking store. If you are short on space in your pack, keep in mind that you may save a little weight, but you pay for it in bulk.

For the past couple of years I've been using the Therm-a-rest Prolite 3, a full length ultra light inflatable pad. I've been really happy with it, but recommend carrying a patch kit if you are hunting in rocky terrain. I really wouldn't recommend sleeping straight on the ground with this pad, use a tarp or ground cloth if you are not using a bivy or a tent. It weighs in at 1 pound 4 ounces and sells for about $80 bucks. You can save 7 ounces and go with the shorter version, but I've found I don't sleep well when my heels are resting on the ground. This phenomena, when I shared with my hunting partner, I was later soundly cursed for. The following year his pack weighed 7 ounces more after I'd pointed out my problem, he suddenly became acutely aware of his sore heels as well.

A company I just became aquainted with at the Outdoor Retailers Show last month is Pacific Outdoor Equipment. They make a plethora of sleeping pads-- foam, inflatable and hybrids. They have some pretty slick designs, check them out @ pacoutdoor.com

Another option for an inflatable is the Thermo Lite by Insul Mat. It weighs about an ounce less than the full length Prolite and will save you about $15 bucks.

The next blog I'll cover stoves. Give me a shout and let me know if there are some specifics that you'd like to see covered, I'd be happy to cover it...just post a comment to this blog entry with what you are interested in.

-South

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Lightweight Sleeping Bags

south@eastmans.com — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 07:00:08 +0100

One of the bulkiest items on your gear list for a [[bivy]] hunt is probably your sleeping bag. If it has not been replaced in the last couple of years, chances are you can not only shave off some weight, but also significantly reduce the bulk. Almost all of the major sleeping bag manufacturers are offering sub 2 pound 3 season down bags now. Some have reduced the weight down to as little as a single pound and can be stuffed into a sack half the size of a nerf football. For my early season hunts in August and the first week of September I like a bag rated at about 30-35 degrees. Any later in the high country and you are increasingly flirting with the chances of sub-freezing temperatures. For those hunts I drop down to a 20 degree rating. Some of my favorite bags are from Western Mountaineering, Marmot, Mountain Hardware and Feathered Friends.

Down is graded by measuring how many [[cubic inches]] it takes to weigh one ounce. A 600 fill is 600 cubic inches per ounce. Several things to keep in mind as you shop for a featherweight bag is the higher quality the [[down]], the lighter the weight and the better the insulation it provides. You should be looking for a minimum of 700-fill-power, with 800-900 being preferred. The difference between a 600 and a 800-fill-power bag of the same temperature rating can be over half a pound. The higher the number, the greater the loft and compatibility for the same fill weight.

For a 30-40 degree bag I'd recommend saving a few ounces and go with a half length zipper. Chances are you are not going to get too hot with the higher rating. If your budget will only allow the acquisition of one new bag, but your hunts cover the early August to late September time frame, I'd recommend going with a 20 bag with a full length zipper. You'll be a little warm in the earlier part of the season, but will be able to unzip to help regulate body heat. I made the mistake of sleeping in a 20 degree bag in Nevada with a half length zipper and roasted every night. Marmot has a bag that is rated at 40 degrees and only weighs a featherweight 1 pound. This would be a great bag for warmer climates in the early season. You can pack a long a set of silk or polypropelene thermals and buy a few extra degrees of comfort.

While you might be tempted to find a really roomy bag for greater comfort, keep in mind dead spots mean cold spots. The more contoured the bag the warmer it is going to be. Draft tubes, like baffled collars, help keep heat from escaping on lower temperature bags. Many of the bags are made in a couple or more different lengths so you won't have to be carrying any more weight than necessary. The shell of the bags are made from many different materials. Some are designed to save maximum weight, some for durability and others for maximum [[waterproofing]].

The first thing I do when I buy a new bag is get another stuff sack one size smaller than the one provided. I've found I can reduce the bulk by at least 25% or more. Don't leave your bag in the stuff sack for extended periods as the down will eventually loose its loft and thus its insulating ability after extended periods of compression.

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