Blog Entries tagged 'bowhunting'

Matt-DIY Antelope

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Tue, 18 Nov 2008 02:00:00 +0100

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DIY Montana Antelope

Montana is a HUGE state and it can be incredibly boring to drive across if you don't have something to think about.� This year I made the drive with antelope on the brain!�

After successfully drawing one of the 560 non-resident archery only tags, I was excited for the season and opportunity to chase some speed goats with my bow.� The tag in my pocket was valid for any hunting region 3 through 7.� I had one bonus point and used it to draw a 9000-00 series tag which allowed me to hunt from August 15th to November 9th.�

The deadline for the antelope drawing is by June 2 and so one hour before the deadline I was submitting my request online.� There are other hunt series that allow archery and rifle but the archery portion for these tags is September 6th to October 11th. Check out the Montana FWP website for all the seasons and changes to the archery seasons as they changed this year, http://fwp.mt.gov/hunting/default.html.� I am also on their mailing list to receive the hunting regulations every year which are great to have in hand when you are in the field.

I determined where to go by using the Montana FWP website and Eastmans' Bowhunting Journal (EBJ) to narrow down which region I was going to hunt in.� After looking at a map of the antelope distribution and reading the May/June 2008 EBJ issue, I determined a region that would be the target where I would direct my car come August 14th.� The archery success rates for this region looked good to me and would hopefully be worth the drive.� Now I just needed to know which dirt road I was going to drive down and where I was going to hunt.

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The Montana FWP website has a great Hunt Planner portion to their website, and you can get great statistical information on success rates for drawing your tag and harvest information.� I used this website, EBJ and advice from a friend who lives in Montana to select my hunting district.� I looked on Google Earth until my eyes were blood shot and found a few places that had potential and were on public land.� There was also going to be a few areas that I could hunt on private land with the help of landowners through Montana's Block Management program.� My hat off to the landowners who allow hunters access to the land they own without paying a fee.�

I started the drive on the 14th of August and made a quick stop to pick up the 2008 Hunting Access Guide hot of the press.� This is the Block Management guide for Montana and has maps and access information on where to hunt on private land with the permission of the landowners.� It is a great partnership between hunters and landowners and one that I will be using more in my future hunts.�

I hunted mainly on BLM land open to the public and didn't see but two old farmers who must have thought I was crazy driving my 2000 Mercury Sable down the old dirt roads chasing antelope with a bow.� I also hunted on some Block Management areas.

For me I had to keep the cost of this trip as low as possible so my plan was to hunt on public land or block management areas so I didn't have to pay a trespassing fee.� Another item I did without was a Montana decoy.� I also don't like sitting still for very long and decided to use the spot and stalk method, which was a good choice as there were lots of waterholes all full due to the wet spring and summer.

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On the first day of the hunt I had 2 stalks that put me within 60-70 yards of a buck.� One buck I hunted was by himself and was a mature P&Y buck with lots of mass.� After making a stalk to within 200 yards I waited 4 hours as we both took naps.� He finally got up and walked over a ridge and I ran up the draw and guessed that he was going to the right on the other side.� As I was crawling over the ridge I spotted him 100 yards away but to my left.� I dropped back down the ridge and ran a few hundred yards to get in front of him.� As I crawled back over the ridge I had positioned myself in front but he spotted me after a few minutes.

Antelope have 20 power eyesight and this big buck was using all of it.� He ran off and I didn't find him until the next morning when I again spooked him out of a draw.� This time I followed him and after a mile or so he came to a fence.� Antelope don't like jumping fences like whitetail do.� They will but as a last resort.� I was on a ridge that ran perpendicular to the fence line and I positioned myself on the ridge 60 yards from the fence.� As the buck made his way down to my position the wind really started to pick up.

The buck would walk 10 feet and stop and look across the fence into the valley below.� Finally he made it to within 75 yards and stopped looking away from me.� I should have drawn at this point but didn't.� I let him advance another 10 yards at which time he stopped and instead of looking out into the valley looked right at me in the tall CRP grass.� I drew my bow and he bolted and then stopped at what I estimated was 70 yards.� My pin was just settling for the shot when he bolted again this time to safety across the fence.�

I was so disappointed!!� This buck was huge and it had been the perfect funnel to drive him to my position.� I learned a lot from this opportunity and really should have filled my tag but that is hunting.� Although I saw plenty of antelope, I didn't have that type of opportunity the rest of the hunt.� It was a long drive home to say the least and I still have that antelope burned in my brain.

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Here are a few items that I learned on this DIY hunt that I wanted to pass along.�

-Purchase an antelope Montana Decoy.� I have used one before and think it would have worked great a few times on this hunt as the topography doesn't always give you a nice deep draw to make your stalk.� The use of a decoy could have given me a few more seconds at times to draw and aim.

-Take a good spotting scope and tripod.� I was using a Swarovski spotting scope on a $15 tripod, not a good combination when the wind is blowing.� A spotting scope is a must and this glass is the best I have used.� It saved me many hours hiking towards does but when you don't have a tripod with a good head it can get old fast as you try to adjust and then re-adjust on your target.�

-Try to find a taxidermist in the area that you could call and ask about weather conditions and winter survival.� Then make it a point to stop by and meet them so you can start to build a relationship.� If I would have called ahead and talked to one I would have found out that every water hole was full due to the wet summer.� This could have been useful information if I was planning on setting up a blind on a water hole.

-Buy some knee pads and gloves that cactus won't go through as you will be crawling through it if you are using the�spot and stalk method.�

-Mentally I dropped out of this hunt after missing the second opportunity at the big buck.� Be prepared to have stalks that fail.� I think I had the mindset that I was only going to get one good stalk and after I wasn't successful I was in the dumps.� Realize that you will have multiple stalk opportunities each day if you are in a good area and work hard.

-Practice shooting in the wind.� Montana and Wyoming are two very windy states and if you are hunting antelope you better be prepared to shoot in the wind.� I practiced shooting in the wind many times this summer and learning to hold your bow somewhat steady is a challenge that you don't want to learn when you have that chance on your perfect stalk.

-Listen to the antelope trilogy series again on BowCast!!!

If anyone has any questions on this hunt or wants me to expand in any area, please let me know and I will do a follow up blog entry.� As for the season... I never made it back over to Montana but will be putting in for the drawing next year.

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Matt-2009 Bows-PSE

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Thu, 13 Nov 2008 02:00:00 +0100

2009 PSE Bows

I hope everyone is having a great whitetail season and possibly some late season elk.� I will be chasing both the next two weeks and keep you posted on my efforts.� During the next few weeks I am going to try and shoot as many of the new 2009 bows as possible and give you my thoughts�on how they compare.��

Wednesday I went to my local pro shop and was able to shoot the new 2009 PSE bows.� The sales rep was there and discussed with me all the new aspects of these bows.� This was the first time I had shot any of the new split limb PSE bows and I have to say that I was very impressed with some of the aspects of these bows.

The three bows that�I�was most impressed with�were the X-Force GX, X-Force Dream Season GX, and X-Force Super Short GX.� All three of these bows have the same GX Hybrid Cam System.� Its one of the most unique cams I have ever seen due to its shape.� The bows also come with an America's Best Premium bowstring�with strategically placed�speed nocks.� The riser has a Vibracheck Backstop string stop and the grip on these bows are very ergonomic, fitting perfectly in your hand.��

The Super Short GX was the first bow that I shot and my 6 month old son is taller than this bow!� I'm sure most of you have seen this bow and I was very impressed with how it shot.� All three of these bows had 60 pound limbs on them and the draw cycle on the Super Short GX was definitely a little different as the cams sit at a different angle on the limbs because the limbs are not flexed/loaded as�much�like they are on the X-Force and the Dream Season.� The draw cycle is a hard/aggressive wall with a very short valley at the end�and one that I could get use to.� I currently shoot a Drenalin so the draw cycles on these PSE bows were a change to the more consistent draw cycle�that I am use to with my�Mathews.

The Dream Season and the X-Force had a�very similar draw cycle.� Same axle to�axle, 32.5 inches but�the X-Force has a shorter 6 inch brace height compared to the Dream Season's 7 inch.� This shorter brace height on the X-Force pushes the arrow a little faster than the Dream�Season at a stated 352 fps compared to 342 fps.� The�draw cycle on these bows was noticeably different than the Super Short.� They still had that aggressive wall but the drop into the valley was not as drastic making for a smoother draw cycle.�

With the speed these bows are pushing arrows I was very impressed with the insignificant amount of hand shock coming through the riser.� The grip is very comfortable and these bows come with Mossy Oak Treestand camo.� They look and feel great.

I also shot the Bow Madness XS and for the price of around $500 this bow is a great value.� The one word that I would use to describe this bow, SMOOTH.� This bow looks very unusual, compared to the X-Force series,�due to the 9 inch nearly parallel limbs on a straight riser.� But don't let the looks fool you as the short 28.5 inch axle to axle and 7� 3/8 inch brace height still push your arrow at 316 fps.

I am waiting to shoot the new Mathews next week when it comes out and will also be shooting the Hoyt and BowTech bows shortly.� I will write a blog on these bows and let you know what I think.� Good luck in the field!

Matt

[...]

Matt-Paper Tuning Part 1

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 02:00:00 +0100

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Part 1-Making a Paper Tuner

I am still working on building my home bow shop like I'm sure many of you are.� There is a great PodCast, episode #53, on what tools and supplies you will need to start your own home bow shop.� One of the items missing from my shop was a paper tuner.� I have tried many times to quickly tune my bow shooting a piece of paper taped to my ladder rungs.� NOT a good idea and one I would NOT recommend as I put a few holes in the wall of my basement and was out a few arrows. �This blog entry will show you how you can make your own paper tuner by simply going to your local hardware and grocery store and spending around $30.

I know there are many different paper tuner designs�on the market and you have all probably seen one at your local pro shop so feel free to alter this design to adapt to your own specifications such as height and construction materials.� The main goal is to have the right type of paper and a tuner that will hold the paper tight so that you get clean crisp tears when you shoot through it.� I will be doing another blog shortly on how to use this paper tuner.

Construction Materials

You can purchase these materials at any Lowes, Home Depot, or plumbing/hardware supplies store.

-3 pieces of 1" schedule 40 plumbing pipe 10' long

-1 piece of 3/4" schedule 40 plumbing pipe 24" long

-6 �1" elbows 90 degrees

-4� 1" Ts

-2� 1"Ts with the leg of the T being 3/4"

-1 roll of freezer paper

-PVC cement

-Tools- tape, marker, saw, rasp or knife to nock down edges after cutting

Step 1-

Cut the 1" schedule 40 into the following dimensions;

8 pieces 24" long,

2 pieces 20" long,

2 pieces �46" long,

and 2 pieces 2" long.�

If you are tall/short and want to increase/decrease the height of your paper tuner then add or subtract�from the 46" measurement.

Cut the 3/4" pipe 24" long.

Clean with a knife or rasp the edges that were cut.

Step 2-

The base is made of all 24" pieces from the 1" pipe.� You want to glue this together on a flat surface so that all 6 joints are making contact with the floor.� Start with the two Ts and�glue a 24" piece on either end.� When gluing with the pvc cement, lightly cover the end of the pipe and the inside of the fitting and twist together.� After the two long sides are complete, glue the 90 degree elbows and then the connecting 24" ends making sure it stays flat and is not tourqued.

Step 3-

The sides are next and they can be cut to the necessary height.� I am 5' 11" and made mine so that I am usually shooting in the middle of the paper at full draw.� Take the 46" pieces and glue a T to one end.� Then glue the 2" piece� of the 1" schedule 40 to the other end of the T.� The last set of Ts are the ones with a 3/4" opening on the�leg�that will hold the pipe that the�paper is on.� Glue these Ts to each of the remaining portion of the 2" pipe.�

Make sure and align the holes!

After the Ts are glued and aligned, glue in the 20" pieces, continuing the side of the paper tuner.� Finally, glue a 90 degree elbow to the top of the 20" piece making sure that it aligns with the two Ts below.�

Don't glue any 24" pieces together on the upright portion of the tuner so that you can take off the paper and turn the top bar to roll up the excess paper.

Step 4

The 24" piece of 3/4" schedule 40 will go through the center of the freezer paper.�

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Place the piping for the sides in the Ts on the base and attach the two sides with the three 24" pieces, leaving the top until last.� Don't glue the 90 degree elbows to the top horizontal 24" piece as you can roll the paper with it as you start to use it.

Step 5

String the paper behind the bottom 1" bar and then take it to the top 1" bar.� Tape it to the bar the length of the paper.� You can either cut and tape it each time you need a new piece or just twist the top bar and roll up the used paper.� You might need to use a small piece of tape on either side of the paper on the bottom bar to keep the paper tight.

Step 6

Place a target 6' behind the paper tuner to allow your fletching to clear and start shooting and�tuning.

Step 7

Read my upcoming blog, Paper Tuning Part 2, to learn how and use the paper tuner you just built.�

[...]

Matt-MSR Hyperflow Gear Review

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Sun, 02 Nov 2008 01:00:00 +0100

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Gear Review- MSR Hyperflow

I will be doing a number of gear reviews in my blog and this one�covers the MSR Hyperflow water filter.� I�will be posting a few more gear reviews in the coming months as I�evaluate some of the new gear I used this season.�

Growing up I was introduced to backpacking at a young age.� We would filter our water from the alpine lakes for cooking but drink straight from the mountain springs and small streams.� I never once�got sick�and up until this year I have never carried a water filter on a backcountry hunt.� I�hunt near streams or springs that have a very low risk of containing harmful amounts of protozoa, bacteria, and viruses; however, it only takes one bad water source and�I could have gotten sick from any of these�disease-causing microorganisms. �I consider myself lucky that I have never gotten sick.� Weight and space were also a factor as I didn't want to pack the extra weight of my backpacking water filter, the MSR Miniworks EX, and I always carried backup iodine water tablets in my hunting pack.

This year I started hunting some new areas and I didn't want to worry about the water quality or where I would have to get it from.� I knew MSR was coming out with a new lightweight filter so I waited until they hit the shelf and purchased one after looking it over in the store and talking to the sales representative who had used one.� I discussed with him the concerns I had of clogging and durability which were the main complaints I had been reading about online and he reassured me that I would have no problems.

My first weekend of archery season this year was a 3 day solo bivy hunt where I put the Hyperflow to the test to see if it truly deserved a place in my Badlands.� I evaluated it on size and weight, ease of use, flow rate, and clogging.� I will discuss each of these factors and rate them on a scale of 1-10.

This filter is light on the scale and I gave it a 9 on size and weight.� This filter is the size of a small bike pump at 7 x 3.5 inches and weighs only 7.4 ounces!� I found it to be very easy to pack in the little pouch provided and it was not an item that took up unnecessary space in my Badlands.� This is one of the biggest benefits as size and ounces are critical when trying to keep your pack under 35 pounds for a 3 day hunt like I was.� To keep the weight down more I eliminated the velcro straps on top of the pre-filter and don't pack the quick connect bottle adapter.� After using this filter on a few hunts I don't ever think the Miniworks EX will hit the trail again as it is 16 ounces.

To use this filter is quick and painless so I pumped out a 9.5 on ease of use.� There is a clean side cover for the outlet spout which is to protect the spout from contamination.� After quickly removing the cover, you can either use the quick connect bottle adapter or pump right into your hydration bag like I did.� Then simply place the pre-filter into the cleanest water available and start pumping like you would with a bike pump.�

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Clean side outlet is what I am holding in my hand.

I used a two inch piece of the tubing and the Camelback Hydrolink filter adapter which allows you to quickly remove your bite valve and connect the filter.� After bleeding the line, I could simply pump my hydration bag full without the hassle of unpacking and then repacking.� Since my hydration bag is one of the heaviest items in my pack I keep it against my back and in the main compartment.� Before I had this filter, I had to unpack everything that was organized around my hydration bag, pull it completely out of my pack, and then try to fill it up in a spring or creek without filling it full of pine needles and leaves from the brush or water.� Now I simply attach the filter to my hydration line, keep my backpack on, fill it up to the desired level, reattach the bite valve, and continue hunting.

If you don't have a filter adapter then you can also use the quick connect bottle adapter.� This connects to the filter on the clean side and screws on most hydration bags or Nalgene type water bottles.

This filter doesn't drip it rips so I gave it a 9.5 in flow rate.� It comes with a pre-filter that floats on the water and has a large amount of surface area that provides an ample water supply.� This is evident by the approximate 20 strokes per liter giving it an approximate�3 liter per minute flow rate.� I would count my pumps so that I could estimate how much water I had transported to my hydration bag and know when to stop.� In comparison the Miniworks EX has a 1 liter per minute flow rate, a substantial difference.� This pre-filter will stop the larger debris from clogging the main hollow fiber filter and, just as manufactures always advise, I would try to place it in the cleanest water available to maximize the life of the filter.

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One thing I did was to remove the velcro straps that are on top of the pre-filter as I didn't see a need for them and they kept it from sitting flat on the water which is important so you don't suck in air while filtering.� The only issue I had while filtering the first few times was that I would occasionally pull the pre-filter off the water and suck in a little air.� To keep from doing this I would put it in a calmer portion of the creek so it wouldn't float away and then tilt up at an angle because it was at the end of its line.� Also I moved the part of the pump with my hydration line and kept the inflow line as steady as possible.�

I haven't had this filter clog or slow down once so I gave it a 9.� I didn't give it a 10 because I'm sure I could have clogged it in some of the muddy waters of the elk wallows I saw this year but I don't know anyone who would filter water from a mud bath pit.� Also the water that I filter from is usually very clean and clear so I'm sure there are some areas that have murky water with lots of sand or silt that could cause a clog or reduction in flow for this or any other filter.� I have never had any issues with a clogged filter and I always try to find the cleanest water source to prevent these types of issues.� If the filter does clog there is a quick backflush process that should clear it.� To maintain the filter and flow�MSR recommends backflushing every 8 liters.� Pick your puddles wisely if you have to use them as a last resort.

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The Hyperflow retails for around $100 and is effective against protozoa and bacteria.� It will not filter out taste like a ceramic filter will, such as the Miniworks EX, or chemicals/toxins.� In the areas I hunt the water tastes great but if this is a concern just take a pack of Wilderness Athlete Hydrate and Recover to mix in and this filter will work great for you.� Overall I found this to be a perfect backcountry hunting filter that I will now be carrying in my pack until something new comes out that tops its effectiveness and size.� For more information go to http://www.msrgear.com/watertreatment/hyperflow.asp and learn more about this product.

[...]

My BLACKHAWK! Blacktimber Pack Review

amaro_jason@hotmail.com — Fri, 26 Sep 2008 02:00:00 +0100

One of the reason Bowcast was started was to give honest and comprehensive products reviews.� If you pickup any magazine or watch any tv show you will see so called reviews.� The only problem is that many of the people reviewing the products are sponsored by the company.� When I see this I always question the review.�

I have been down the sponsorship or pro-staff road a few times and luckily I have been able to to stay independent.� This affords me the freedom to call it like I see it.� I don't have to help sell a product.

As many of you know I have been reviewing a BLACKHAWK! Blacktimber pack for a few months.� My goal was to really give it a workout.� I didn't want to do one of those reviews that you see in the magazine that just list the specs.� I wanted to be able to say that I really tested a pack and want to feel comfortable with the review that the pack EARNED.

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I guess I should probably give you guys some of my background as far as packs go.� For the most part I have been using two different Badlands Packs, the 2200 and the 4500 Badlands. Before the review the 2200 was my everyday pack.� �

How did I come to review the Blacktimber?� Well, I saw an advertisement that they had in a magazine and I was intrigued by there design.� So I kept my eyes out for a good deal.� After a few months I found a good deal on a Blacktimber pack, the only problem is that it was digital. No big deal. � For the record, the pack comes in Max-1, Mossy Oak and Digital.

What was my first impression of the pack? � Wow, it was light and the hydration bladder had some neat features.� The bladder hangs from the top of the pack so it doesn't bunch up on the bottom of the pack and the bite value had an optional water filter. �

As far as fit.� It fit really well.� They use this material that they call SpaceNet on the back panel, the shoulder straps and the waist belt, the material is hard to describe; it is kind of like a sponge that keeps air circulating around all the points of contact.� It is also supposed to wick away sweat.� I don't know all the details on the SpaceNet material but I like it. �

Here is a picture of the material.

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The hip belt and shoulder straps are adequate.� It should be pointed out that the chest strap connects on the right� shoulder, so if you are a right handed archer they will never be a chance of the chest strap buckles getting caught in your bowstring. � The load lifters are fine but this pack isn't designed to carry a lot of weight, I will get more into that a little later. ��

The pack has 4 main storage compartments, for me that is more than enough.� I was able to carry all of my gear on my recent elk and antelope hunts.� The pack has a Shov-it pocket which I think was designed for clothes but I was able to use it to carry my elk decoy.� It worked out really nicely because I could pull the decoy out without removing the pack and messing with zipper.��

The pack also has what they call the S.T.R.I.K.E system sewn into the pack which allows you to attach accessory pouches just about anywhere you want.� I got two; one I used for my rangefinder and the other I used for my GPS and SPOT.� Because I have short arms and a long waist :) I liked the flexibility of adding the pouches where I can get to them.

If you are reading this BLACKHAWK!, I really wish that you would create some sort of accessory that would allow me to attach a one piece quiver to the pack using the S.T.R.I.K.E. system.� I ended up modifying my pack a little by tying in a Cat Quiver on the back of the pack.� It worked out really nicely.

Below is what my pack looks while it is loaded.

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Okay, so that is all the techie stuff, how did it perform in the field?� Well, I have been using for scouting and hunting and it has been great.� This pack got me thinking that I have been "over-packed", by that I mean I been carry empty cubic inches on my back.� If you don't need a 4500 cubic inch beast why carry all the extra weight?� This pack is 2557 cubic inches and I am able to easily get all of my stuff in the pack and you guys know, I always carry a ton of stuff on my back.� I will say that this pack ISN'T a Meat Hauler, it was designed� to carry essential gear in a nice, compact light fashion.

So the big question, would I recommend this pack?� Before I say yes or no, I need to stress that packs are like shoes, you need to try the pack on with weight in it to see if it fits your body type. ��

And the answer to the question is, YES.� If you are looking for a smaller pack that you could use while scouting or even hunting the Blacktimber is a great pack. �

You can go to their website by clicking� HERE.

J-�

Below is the stats from the website

BlackTimber 100oz Hydration/Hunting Pack

Big capacity meets big hydration. the BlackTimber� was designed for extreme performance with the serious hunter in mind. Featuring over-sized, easy-to use compartments with 2,557 cubic inches of cargo space and 100 oz. of easily accessible liquid, it�s ready for days of action in the back country. Comes complete with BlackHawk�s S.T.R.I.K.E.� system sewn-in for modular attachments, a SpaceNet molded back panel that wicks away sweat and a reinforced waist belt with additional attachment points.Extremely deep Shov-It� pocket is designed to carry bulky items, including dressed meat and antlers, while the pull-out, 244-square-inch blaze orange panel offers additional safety in the field.

NOTE: The blaze orange panel is NOT available on the ARPAT color (73PA04AU)��

� Padded shoulder straps are made with non-slip HawkTex to
�� help keep your rifle sling in place
� Bungee retention system allows for the storing of extra
�� layers of clothes
� Poly-frame sheet with aluminum reinforcement
� Robust waist belt evenly distributes weight and is removable
� Emergency whistle attached to front harness strap
� External shooting sticks/tripod storage on both sides of pack
� Deep expandable center section with pull-out orange panel
�� for safety
� Drink system protected by Microban� antimicrobial
�� technology
� 360-degree bite valve and patent pending quick disconnect
�� system
� BlackHawk bite valve holster keeps bite valve clean and out
�� of the way
� Compatible with BlackHawk in-line water filtration system

Hydration Capacity: 100 oz./ 3 liters
Pack Dimensions:� 21.5H x 10�W x 8�D
Pack Total Cubes:� 2,557� w/stuff pocket

[...]

My Goals for the 2008-2009 Season..

michaeledge@bowcast.com — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 02:00:00 +0100

My goal this year is to take a whitetail with my bow. I plan to go in a couple of weeks to shoot a hog with my bow to get ready for the season. I will be going to my hunting camp in grosse tete to hunt both hogs and whitetail. When I hunt hogs I plan to start with a treestand, bit if that does not work I will try and put a spot and stalk. When I am whitetail hunting I will be hunting out of a treestand. Unlike hunting big muleys in the mountains, we cannot spot and stalk because our woods are too thick. My setup this year is a HOYT Avenger set at 60 lbs and 27 1/2 in. draw legnth. I am using G5 sites. I shoot 400gr Easton arrows with 100gr thunderhead browheads. Michael
[...]

When it rains it pours - My 2008 Antelope

amaro_jason@hotmail.com — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 02:00:00 +0100

Talk about RAIN!!! It has been a long time since I have seen this much rain this late in the year. In fact, we had TORNADO warnings for the first two days of our Antelope season. I was praying that the area that I was hunting was relatively dry and that I might be able to sit a tank until I was forced to do a little spot and stalk.

Because of birthdays and family visiting I wasn't able to make the first two days of the hunt, usually two days isn't that big of a deal but our Antelope season is only 7 days long so you have to take advantage of everyday. So I rolled out of Silver City Monday morning around 5:00 am trying to make it to my hunting spot before noon. I was able to get to my camping spot around 10:00 am. So I quickly setup camp and headed to the mountain. I say mountain but in reality the area I was hunting was pretty flat. The good thing about this area is that I could see and glass a long way but the problem was that the antelope would see me coming.

A picture of some of the country

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So my hunt really started about 11:00 am on Monday. The plan was to drive to the little tank that I killed my buck last year and sit it. Hopefully, the rains that were hitting most of the state missed this little area of NM. I will admit that it was a lot drier than I thought it would be. The only problem that I had is that antelope will drink out of a little puddle made by a cow hoof print. Speaking of cows, when I got to my little tank it was surrounded by cattle... ARRRGHH!!! I mean surrounded. I understand that the rancher in the area has the right to have his cattle in the pasture but dang. It was a mess and I was pretty discouraged. Hoping for the best I stuck in out until sunset. Unfortunately, It was NBC or Nothing But Cows.

So I headed to the trailer for the evening to regroup and come up with a plan. There was no way that sitting water with that many cows around it, was going to work.

I think that the best hunters spend 75% of there time scouting and 25% of the time hunting. With Mother Nature throwing me a curve this year, I needed to do some serious speed-scouting. I needed to find one of two things; a tank that was being hit by goats that didn't have cattle around it or find some habitat that was more conducive to stalking.

Tuesday morning I covered a ton of ground with my Duramax and with my Swaro 15x's. I eliminated some unproductive ground and I found one little area that held some good goats. I saw them the previous day and if was lucky they might hold in the area during the hunt. If worse came to worse I could setup in the rocks and try to wait them out.

This is a picture of the area.
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I was starting to feel a little better about my chances but I knew it wasn't going to be as easy as last year. So my game planned changed from sitting water to spotting and stalking or hunting travel corridors.

Before I headed back to camp I did put the stalk on a nice buck with big cutters but I just wasn't able to get any closer than 125 yards before the sky's opened up. It was pretty dicey getting back to camp but I made it without any drama.

Before the roads got bad

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I know the picture above isn't the best but let me say that it was slick as owl crap.

That night I went to sleep with raining falling on the trailer, usually that is a soothing sound but I had some hunting to do so it was a little unnerving.

Before I new it my Treo was going off and it was time to hit the hills. I think that when you are spotting and stalking it is all about numbers. The more times you the try, the better your odds get. So I promised myself that I was going to put the stalk on every legal animal that I could glass up(if they were in a stalkable place of course). As I left camp it was obvious that I was in for another rainy day so my decision to spot and stalk was a wise one.

I put two stalks on in the morning and I pretty much blew both of them. I just ran out of terrain to hide behind but my third stalk had some real promise. You can't see it in the picture below but there are two bucks bedded on the top of the ridge. They were looking down and seemed to be nodding out. They were about 3/4 of a mile away and it seemed that they were going to stick around for a little while.

Ridge with bucks on it.

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So off I went. The stalk was going pretty well but about 400 yards from where I thought the bucks were bedded it started raining and lightening really hard. Crap, I had a few options; Call off the stalk like a wuss, put my noisy rain gear on and hope that the bucks wouldn't hear me or suck it up and hunt. All I could think of is a saying my buddy Dan Staton (fitness god) says, "Suck it up, Buttercup".

THE HUNT WAS ON... Something was going to hit the mud; a buck or a Jason.

I was using a little bush as a marker to guide me to where the bucks were bedded. I was able to get to that bush without a problem but now I needed to relocate the bucks. I knew that they had to be close. Danger Close. After about 10 minutes I was able to glass up some little tips sticking thru the sage about 80 yards away. Yes, I mean little but I was committed and given the conditions any buck would be great. The best part is that he was still looking downhill.

I have been practicing all summer and 80 yards would be a doable shot but I wanted to close the distance to about 40 yards. So I decide to push my luck and try to close the distance. Luckily, it was still raining so I had some background noise and I ground would be really soft.

It took me about 30 minutes to cover those last 40 yards but it seem like eternity.

So, I was close enough and I had a decent angle on his vitals but he was bedded and I didn't want to take that shot. To be honest, I don't know why I didn't want to shoot the buck when he was bedded but I just didn't. The wait was on.

To make this a successful stalk I had to do three things; Wait for him to stand, make the shot and don't get hit my lightening.

Taking a hint from the bucks I bedded down next to a sage bush and got comfortable.

After about 10 minutes he started to get fidgety and I knew he was about to stand. So I started to get ready for my opportunity. Almost in unison we both came to our knees. The only difference is that as I rose I also drew my bow back. I let my 40 yard pin on settle on his heart, whispered to myself "Confidence is Deadly" and let the arrow fly.

WHAAACK!!!!!

At first he don't know what happened but when he looked up the hill he saw me and he knew he was busted. He started running uphill to my right but I also ran than way hoping that he would see me and run downhill towards the truck. Guess what? He headed right to the truck but stopped to get a feel for the situation. I quickly ranged him again at 78 yards, I moved my sight and hit him again behind the last rib angling forward towards his front leg.

What a rush! I had just made the best stalk of my life. Is he a monster? No, but that really doesn't matter. I had everything against me and I had every reason to quit but I didn't. I sucked it up and I made the shot.

Nice Shot!

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How about a hero shot?

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A few things that I learned or could have done better on the hunt?

--- I recently switched from a Badlands 2800 pack to a BLACKHAWK! Blacktimber and that was a great move. I think that carrying a little bit smaller but very functionally pack made it easier to stalk my buck. IMO we often we try to get the highest capacity pack but that is always the best decision. Stick to a pack size that fits the situation.

--- I need to find another place in this unit that has more stalkable terrain. Flat is great when hunting water but not so great when spotting and stalking.

--- I really like my new Sure-loc sight. It is a basic 3-pin but it has a slider so I can adjust it on the fly. I had my pins set at 20-30-40 but my sight tape went out to 85 yards. I just moved my slider and I was dead-on out to 85 yards.

--- The new Tekan II's do fly like field points.

This is one of my favorite pictures

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A Bloody Bumper - That means you had a successful hunt and the animal is loaded.

So that was my 2008 Antelope hunt... WOW.... What a hunt...

I hope you liked the story...
Take Care

Jason

[...]

My Introduction Blog Entry - Dave

daveedge@bowcast.com — Wed, 20 Aug 2008 02:00:00 +0100

Hello Everybody in Bowcast land. How about a little about myself. I am 16 yrs old I live in sw Colorado. I will be a junior in high school this year. I don’t have to go very far to go bow hunting just out my back door for mule deer. We have some good bucks in our area. I have been hunting for 5 years and I started bowhunting in 2006.I have killed a bull elk with my bow so far. The reasons why I wanted to write for bowcast is to help young archers and give people a different point of view. I have a lot to learn in the years to come. My personal favorite species to hunt is the mule deer because it is a blast trying to out smart the gray ghost. My plans for the future are to keep writing for bowcast and I would like to guide the eastern plains of colorado for the huge mule deer and whitetail that roam the plains.
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Dave [...]

Hunting in Bear Country

south@eastmans.com — Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:29:17 +0100

I thought I would call out one of the comments I received about the bear mauling directly on the blog. Thanks for the question, my response is below.

Comment: I guess your story summed up my wife' s main objection to my planned solo trip this fall. Can you explain ways to decrease the likelihood of becoming a playtoy for a bear?

Following the bear mauling I experienced, you'd probably expect that I'd take every precaution available to avoid a repeat. Because of the circumstances of the mauling: surprising the mother and cubs at close range, inside her comfort zone, I haven't changed the way I spend my time in bear country much. I recognize that it was really a freak accurance and that not every bear has intentions of making a snack out of me. I don't always hang my food, as reccomended, but when I'm leaving my basecamp unoccupied I do. I try not to stash food in my tent where I sleep, though I'm not as diligent about it as I should be. I carry pepper spray, though I don't have as much faith in the new stuff as the old. I give sows with cubs a WIDE berth (which is probably the most significant habit I have changed). I don't carry a side arm, too much weight and not legal in many states during the archery season. I think my encounter was one of those "struck by lightning" chance happenings. I literally don't loose any sleep over another encounter.

That being said, when there is unusually high numbers of bears, or as I encounter in Colorado a few years ago, food sources that were low for the bears, I do take extra measures that I don't loose my food to them. Hanging your food is a pain in the rear, but is a good precaution to avoid bear/human conflict. I've even spent time on the rivers of Kodiak during the salmon runs. Food is plentiful, and we spent many a night with the frying pan unwashed from a fresh salmon dinner right outside the tent. Never had a problem, but food was plentiful for them then. Come October/November and it is a whole different situation. Food sources are much more limited and the bears are more aggressive. That is when I'd really be swiveling my head around looking for problems.

South

[...]

Bare Shaft Tuning

amaro_jason@hotmail.com — Fri, 18 Apr 2008 17:52:11 +0100

Recently, in the fourms we had some discussion about Bare Shaft Tuning and I was asked to explain it a little more.... So here it goes.

The idea behind Bare Shaft Tuning is that you are trying to see if you arrows are correctly spined for your setup.

Before we get started there are a few things that I want to get out there:

Never shoot an arrow that has a broadhead without fletching, the results are just too unpredictable.Tuning takes time; days if not weeks.Bare Shaft tuning is one of several methods that I use to tune. Try them all.When you start adjusting things make one adjustement at a time. For example; if you are hitting high and right tackle the high part first then come back and handle the arrows hitting to the right.Before you start any tuning make sure that you don't have any "flecthing clearance" issues. These "Remedies" are for a right hand shooter if you are a lefty will need to flip-flop the movements.When I Bareshaft Tune my bow I start out at 10 yards and then I work my way out to about 30 yards.I personally work on getting my elevation correct first then I work on the windage.
Needed Items:
A Target2-3 Arrows without any fletching.Different weight points if you have them.Allen Key to move rest and adjust bow draw weight.plenty of time.

The big question is; what are we trying to accomplish?
What we are basically trying to do is get our bareshafts and fletched arrows to hit in the same point. This is accomplished by moving the rest or changing the spine of the arrow shaft. Personally, I would much rather move the rest than play with the arrow spine, but if your arrows are not spined correctly you may never get your arrows to fly correctly.

Lets first look at the techinque:
What I like to do is stand about 10 yards from my target and I shoot three flecthed arrows into the target and three bare shaft or non-flecthed arrows into the target. You should be able to get a decent group from both the fletched and non-flechted arrows. The key is to really focus on form and make sure that you don't introduce any torque into the bow. You might want to try this several times to make sure that your results are repeateable. Hopefully, after a few times you should be able to see the pattern.

Bare Shaft Arrows

How to Fix

Arrows are hitting High

You can either raise your knocking point or you can lower your rest

Arrows hitting Low

You can either lower your knocking point or raise your rest.

Arrows hitting to the Right

You are Under Spined - You will need to stiffen your arrow by shortening it; reduce your tip weight ; switch to stiffer arrows; you can decrease you bow's draw weight or you can move your rest to the left.

Arrows hitting to the Left

You are Over Spined - You will need to soften your arrow you can lengthen your arrows; increase tip weight; switch to softer arrows; increase your draw weight or move your rest to the right.

For the most part Bare Shaft tuning is pretty straight forward. The key is to remember that you are not group tuning or paper tuning what you are trying to do is make sure that you are correctly spined.

Once again thanks for everything. If you have any questions send me a PM.

Jason

[...]

Sleeping Pads

south@eastmans.com — Tue, 26 Feb 2008 22:49:53 +0100

Besides providing a more comfortable nights' sleep, sleeping pads provide another important function; insulation. I vividly recall one bivouac trip I made. In an effort to shave a couple of pounds or so off of my packs weight I decided to leave my pad at home. Several hours into the night, with chattering teeth I realized what that second function was. Since that time, technology and innovation has reduced the weight and bulk, now providing several options at around and just under a pound.

The closed cell foam pads offer the lightest option at just under a pound, but doesn't provide quite as much cushion or insulation as the self inflating models. For cold weather camping the insulation factor becomes more important. Cost is about $20-$40 depending on if you buy one of the blue foamies at Wal-Mart or a fancier one at a backpacking store. If you are short on space in your pack, keep in mind that you may save a little weight, but you pay for it in bulk.

For the past couple of years I've been using the Therm-a-rest Prolite 3, a full length ultra light inflatable pad. I've been really happy with it, but recommend carrying a patch kit if you are hunting in rocky terrain. I really wouldn't recommend sleeping straight on the ground with this pad, use a tarp or ground cloth if you are not using a bivy or a tent. It weighs in at 1 pound 4 ounces and sells for about $80 bucks. You can save 7 ounces and go with the shorter version, but I've found I don't sleep well when my heels are resting on the ground. This phenomena, when I shared with my hunting partner, I was later soundly cursed for. The following year his pack weighed 7 ounces more after I'd pointed out my problem, he suddenly became acutely aware of his sore heels as well.

A company I just became aquainted with at the Outdoor Retailers Show last month is Pacific Outdoor Equipment. They make a plethora of sleeping pads-- foam, inflatable and hybrids. They have some pretty slick designs, check them out @ pacoutdoor.com

Another option for an inflatable is the Thermo Lite by Insul Mat. It weighs about an ounce less than the full length Prolite and will save you about $15 bucks.

The next blog I'll cover stoves. Give me a shout and let me know if there are some specifics that you'd like to see covered, I'd be happy to cover it...just post a comment to this blog entry with what you are interested in.

-South

[...]

Proper Warm Up

dan@sportsmansfitness.com — Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:52:47 +0100

One of the most abused or overlooked components of working out is taking the time to incorporate a proper warm-up. Instead of jumping right into a gut busting workout or half heartedly performing a few static stretches, try integrating a proper dynamic warm-up. This is the only way to prepare your body for the demands that a workout may have on you and decrease your chance of injury. The first part of a warm-up is heating your body which simultaneously increases your respiratory rate, blood flow, oxygen, which will enhance delivery of nutrients to your body's cells. This ultimately notifies your body's systems that some demanding work is approaching.

Once you've obtained a light sweat in a short time via a few calisthenics or rope jumping, you're then ready to move onto the dynamic stretching portion of your warm-up. This involves slowly performing the same kinds of movements you'll be making in your workout, and gradually increasing your speed. As specific muscles, tendons, and joints follow the movement patterns they'll be expected to complete later, they become used to the movement, and less likely to tear when the movements are made at higher speeds. This stage also works as a cue for your nervous system to switch on the specific neuromuscular connections it need for those movement patterns.

Lastly, this two-stage warm-up helps you to prepare mentally for coming workout. Regardless of what that workout, might be, you'll do it better, and enjoy it more, if you're able to bring your full focus into it by taking the time to warm-up properly.

Benefits of a Proper Warm Up:

Increased Muscle TemperatureBlood Vessels Dilate Improve Efficient Cooling Increased Blood Temperature Improved Range of Motion Hormonal Changes Mental Preparation

CALISTHENIC MOVEMENTS:

JUMP ROPE

PRISONER SQUATS

¨ Your Objective: Athlete should stand with feet wider than shoulders, hands behind the head with interlocked fingers, sit back while bending at the knees, shins stay vertical, and weight on heels. Your tempo should be fairly fast (1-0-1)¨ Where you should feel it: Your quadriceps should start to fill up with blood.¨ Goal: Perform 10 repetitions before moving onto Jumping Jacks.

WIDE OUTS

¨ Your Objective: Begin in a squat position with the knees together. While in squat position, jump and open legs past shoulder width. Feet stay pointed forward and the head should not change height. Return to the initial position and repeat.¨ Where you should feel it: Your quadriceps will undoubtedly!¨ Goal: Perform as many touches as possible over the course of ten seconds before heading right into Gate Swings

GATE SWINGS

¨ Your Objective: Begin in the squat position with the knee together. Stay in the squat, jump and open the legs feet and knees point out. Focus is the stretch across the groin muscles, head stays level¨ Where you should feel it: Your quadriceps and groin.¨ Goal: Perform 10 full repetitions before heading right into Mt. Climbers.

MOUNTAIN CLIMBERS

¨ Your Objective: Begin in the push-up position. Jump only one foot forward on the inside of the elbows. On the return of that foot, the other foot then alternates into forward position. Focus on low hips and executing full hip flexion and extension¨ Where you should feel it: Your core will be fired the entire time as well as your hip flexors and quadriceps.¨ Goal: Perform 10 repetitions each leg before heading right into

GROINERS

¨ Your Objective: Begin in the push-up position. Jump only one foot forward on the outside of the elbows. On the return of that foot, the other foot then alternates into forward position. Focus on low hips and executing full hip flexion and extension¨ Where you should feel it: Your core will be fired the entire time as well as your hip flexors and quadriceps.¨ Goal: Perform 10 repetitions each leg before heading right into Dynamic Stretching

DYNAMIC MOVEMENT VIDEO

Video will be in next blog post.

HAND WALKS or INCH WORMS

¨ Your objective: To build stability in the shoulder and core. Also to lengthen the hamstrings, calves and muscles of the lower back. Start by placing your legs legs straight, hands on floor. Proceed by keeping legs straight and belly button drawn in, walk your hands out. Still keeping your legs straight, walk feet back up to your hands. Repeat. Walk back up to your hands taking baby steps using only the ankles ("ankle steps"). Don't use the knees, hips or quads.¨ Where you should feel it: a stretch in the hamstrings, lower back, glutes, calves and front of the shins.¨ Goal: Perform at least 4 full inch worms unless more is requiredINVERTED HAM STRINGS ¨ Your objective: To improve hamstring flexibility and balance and dynamic pillar stabilization. Starting Position: Balance on your left foot with perfect posture (tummy tight, shoulders back and down). Procedure: Bending at the waist, maintaining perfect posture, grab the left foot with your right hand, extending right leg back as you fire the right glute. (You might find it easier to extend forward with both hands rather than grabbing a foot.) Your shoulder and heel should move as one, forming a straight line. Take a step back at the end of each rep as you alternate legs. Your body should be in a straight line from ear to ankle. Keep the back and pelvis flat! Someone should be able to place a broomstick snugly across your back. ¨ Where you should feel it: a stretch in the hamstrings.¨ Goal: Perform at least 5 fluid repetitions each leg

WALKING LUNGE GROIN, HAM, & HIP

¨ Your objective: To improve flexibility in the hips, hamstrings, lower back, torso, groin, hip flexors and quads. Start by taking a large step forward with the right leg, as if doing a lunge. Place and support weight on the left hand even with the right foot. Take the right elbow and reach down to your instep (forward leg) while keeping the back knee off the ground. Move the right hand outside the right foot and push hips straight to the sky, pulling the toe up toward the shin. Keep the back knee off the ground. Exhale as you reach the elbow to the floor. At the end, make sure both hands remain in contact with the ground as you lift hips and pull toe toward the shin.¨ Where you should feel it: a stretch in the back leg's hip flexor and front leg's glute. During the second part, you should feel a stretch in the front hamstring and calf.¨ Goal: Perform at least 4 full repetitions each leg unless more is required

WORKOUT:

ROOKIES:

Perform new dynamic warm-up three different bouts a week coupled with 15-20 minutes of light body weight strength training. IE 3 sets of maximum body weight repetitions of pull-ups, push-ups, sit-ups, lunges, squats, and back extensions. Perform cardio by trying something different than your usual workout IE incorporate elliptical, stairmaster, hike with a pack, snow-shoe, jump rope, play basketball, etc

VARSITY:

Perform new dynamic warm-up before workout bouts coupled with hard cardio 3x per week. In addition to your own workouts, integrate a 3,000 meter workout on the rower for time. One workout to integrate weekly is to bench your bodyweight for max reps, deadlift your body weight for max reps, and perform pull-ups for max reps.

PROS:

Perform the Crossfit "Fran" workout and record your time. Fran is bouncing back and forth between "Thrusters" (Barbell front squat to an overhead press) and pull-ups. Three rounds of each at 21 reps, 15 reps, and 9 reps. Make sure your squats are to parallel and that your presses and pull-ups involve full range of motion. There is no room for rest when doing this bad boy! Post your time if you dare!

[...]

Lightweight Sleeping Bags

south@eastmans.com — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 07:00:08 +0100

One of the bulkiest items on your gear list for a [[bivy]] hunt is probably your sleeping bag. If it has not been replaced in the last couple of years, chances are you can not only shave off some weight, but also significantly reduce the bulk. Almost all of the major sleeping bag manufacturers are offering sub 2 pound 3 season down bags now. Some have reduced the weight down to as little as a single pound and can be stuffed into a sack half the size of a nerf football. For my early season hunts in August and the first week of September I like a bag rated at about 30-35 degrees. Any later in the high country and you are increasingly flirting with the chances of sub-freezing temperatures. For those hunts I drop down to a 20 degree rating. Some of my favorite bags are from Western Mountaineering, Marmot, Mountain Hardware and Feathered Friends.

Down is graded by measuring how many [[cubic inches]] it takes to weigh one ounce. A 600 fill is 600 cubic inches per ounce. Several things to keep in mind as you shop for a featherweight bag is the higher quality the [[down]], the lighter the weight and the better the insulation it provides. You should be looking for a minimum of 700-fill-power, with 800-900 being preferred. The difference between a 600 and a 800-fill-power bag of the same temperature rating can be over half a pound. The higher the number, the greater the loft and compatibility for the same fill weight.

For a 30-40 degree bag I'd recommend saving a few ounces and go with a half length zipper. Chances are you are not going to get too hot with the higher rating. If your budget will only allow the acquisition of one new bag, but your hunts cover the early August to late September time frame, I'd recommend going with a 20 bag with a full length zipper. You'll be a little warm in the earlier part of the season, but will be able to unzip to help regulate body heat. I made the mistake of sleeping in a 20 degree bag in Nevada with a half length zipper and roasted every night. Marmot has a bag that is rated at 40 degrees and only weighs a featherweight 1 pound. This would be a great bag for warmer climates in the early season. You can pack a long a set of silk or polypropelene thermals and buy a few extra degrees of comfort.

While you might be tempted to find a really roomy bag for greater comfort, keep in mind dead spots mean cold spots. The more contoured the bag the warmer it is going to be. Draft tubes, like baffled collars, help keep heat from escaping on lower temperature bags. Many of the bags are made in a couple or more different lengths so you won't have to be carrying any more weight than necessary. The shell of the bags are made from many different materials. Some are designed to save maximum weight, some for durability and others for maximum [[waterproofing]].

The first thing I do when I buy a new bag is get another stuff sack one size smaller than the one provided. I've found I can reduce the bulk by at least 25% or more. Don't leave your bag in the stuff sack for extended periods as the down will eventually loose its loft and thus its insulating ability after extended periods of compression.

[...]

Goal Setting Video for Bowhunter Fitness

dan@sportsmansfitness.com — Fri, 01 Feb 2008 12:42:40 +0100

As an addendum to my last post, check out the video below. I go through S.M.A.R.T and how it applies to bow hunter fitness.

Also, I will be at the SHOT show with the rest of the BowCast team over the weekend, so I may be a little slower than normal replying to emails or blog posts. Thanks for your patience! Enjoy!

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Introduction to Bivouac and Backcountry Bow Hunting

south@eastmans.com — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 23:38:30 +0100

My goal in this blog is to help you learn the ropes of [[backcountry]] hunting. Whether you are a seasoned veteran or have never spent the night out in the wilderness, I think there will be something for everyone. I invite your questions, comments and critiques. The first several entries I plan on covering gear choices in greater detail than I was able to cover on the podcast. After that I’ll go into some specifics about mule deer hunting in the [[alpine]]. As I get input and feedback, the [[blogs]] will likely take off on other tangents of the readers’ interests.

Through the years I’ve spent in the mountains, I’ve had more than one fellow bowhunter comment that I put in way more effort trying to fill my tags than I need to. I the west can be hunted without the burden of a backpack, but that is one of the things that appeals to me. My first [[bivouac]] trip was a solo venture when I was 17 years old. Since that time I’ve spent the majority of my hunting seasons well off the beaten path. I love getting to hang around a campfire in the evenings with a couple of buddies, swapping old stories, but even more anticipated is throwing a pack load of gear on my back and leaving base camp for a few days. Maybe I was born a couple of centuries too late, but I love the feeling of being the first person to glass a big canyon or distant ridge (even if it is just for that season). Often times I leave base camp with a specific destination in mind, only to get lured further and further. Having a [[bivy]] camp on my back gives me the freedom of wandering further and longer without having to worry about what I’m going to eat or where I am going to sleep. It gets me further into the backcountry, farther away from other hunter pressure, provides me the flexibility to be able to move if I encounter hunter pressure and allows me to hunt undisturbed animals. The “work” part of carrying my pack all day has become just another part of the hunt; I don’t think of it as an anchor, rather a liberating piece of equipment. It gives me great satisfaction knowing I’m carrying all I need to survive for up to a week at a time.

While I’ve used bivouac hunting mostly in my pursuit of [[mule deer]], there is hardly an animal better suited for it than [[elk]]. For starters, most of the time you don’t need a [[spotting scope]] for elk. That’ll shave off 3-8 pounds off of your pack weight when you add in the tripod. Because elk are gregarious and wander over large areas, it is often necessary to cover large tracts of country in order to get into elk. Enter the bivy hunter. If you locate a herd of elk at last light, far from your base camp, you’ll be in good position for a morning hunt without the commute. Sleeping on the mountain will save you a lot of energy from commuting to and from base camp. Longer nights in the sleeping bag translate into a fresher, sharper hunter.

Start thinking about how bivouac hunting could fit into your hunts this fall. Like Aneal pointed out during the bivy podcast, it isn’t just a tactic for western animals. For me, it goes beyond just being a more effective way to hunt. It is a closer connection to the past; less reliance on the civilized world. Distractions from nature, the very reason we spend our time outdoors, are minimized. No radios drowning out the sounds of the night or campers insulating us from the unknown. It adds another element to the hunt, another part to plan, execute and perfect. Now when I go on a hunt where I am not living out of my sleeping bag, I feel like I there is something missing.

The subject for my next blog will cover sleeping bags and pads. What to look for and some of different options out on the market. I hope you’ll check back in a couple of weeks for the next entry.

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south@eastmans.com

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