Blog Entries tagged 'equipment'

Matt-MSR Hyperflow Gear Review

matthewblog@bowcast.com — Sun, 02 Nov 2008 01:00:00 +0100

�

Gear Review- MSR Hyperflow

I will be doing a number of gear reviews in my blog and this one�covers the MSR Hyperflow water filter.� I�will be posting a few more gear reviews in the coming months as I�evaluate some of the new gear I used this season.�

Growing up I was introduced to backpacking at a young age.� We would filter our water from the alpine lakes for cooking but drink straight from the mountain springs and small streams.� I never once�got sick�and up until this year I have never carried a water filter on a backcountry hunt.� I�hunt near streams or springs that have a very low risk of containing harmful amounts of protozoa, bacteria, and viruses; however, it only takes one bad water source and�I could have gotten sick from any of these�disease-causing microorganisms. �I consider myself lucky that I have never gotten sick.� Weight and space were also a factor as I didn't want to pack the extra weight of my backpacking water filter, the MSR Miniworks EX, and I always carried backup iodine water tablets in my hunting pack.

This year I started hunting some new areas and I didn't want to worry about the water quality or where I would have to get it from.� I knew MSR was coming out with a new lightweight filter so I waited until they hit the shelf and purchased one after looking it over in the store and talking to the sales representative who had used one.� I discussed with him the concerns I had of clogging and durability which were the main complaints I had been reading about online and he reassured me that I would have no problems.

My first weekend of archery season this year was a 3 day solo bivy hunt where I put the Hyperflow to the test to see if it truly deserved a place in my Badlands.� I evaluated it on size and weight, ease of use, flow rate, and clogging.� I will discuss each of these factors and rate them on a scale of 1-10.

This filter is light on the scale and I gave it a 9 on size and weight.� This filter is the size of a small bike pump at 7 x 3.5 inches and weighs only 7.4 ounces!� I found it to be very easy to pack in the little pouch provided and it was not an item that took up unnecessary space in my Badlands.� This is one of the biggest benefits as size and ounces are critical when trying to keep your pack under 35 pounds for a 3 day hunt like I was.� To keep the weight down more I eliminated the velcro straps on top of the pre-filter and don't pack the quick connect bottle adapter.� After using this filter on a few hunts I don't ever think the Miniworks EX will hit the trail again as it is 16 ounces.

To use this filter is quick and painless so I pumped out a 9.5 on ease of use.� There is a clean side cover for the outlet spout which is to protect the spout from contamination.� After quickly removing the cover, you can either use the quick connect bottle adapter or pump right into your hydration bag like I did.� Then simply place the pre-filter into the cleanest water available and start pumping like you would with a bike pump.�

�

Clean side outlet is what I am holding in my hand.

I used a two inch piece of the tubing and the Camelback Hydrolink filter adapter which allows you to quickly remove your bite valve and connect the filter.� After bleeding the line, I could simply pump my hydration bag full without the hassle of unpacking and then repacking.� Since my hydration bag is one of the heaviest items in my pack I keep it against my back and in the main compartment.� Before I had this filter, I had to unpack everything that was organized around my hydration bag, pull it completely out of my pack, and then try to fill it up in a spring or creek without filling it full of pine needles and leaves from the brush or water.� Now I simply attach the filter to my hydration line, keep my backpack on, fill it up to the desired level, reattach the bite valve, and continue hunting.

If you don't have a filter adapter then you can also use the quick connect bottle adapter.� This connects to the filter on the clean side and screws on most hydration bags or Nalgene type water bottles.

This filter doesn't drip it rips so I gave it a 9.5 in flow rate.� It comes with a pre-filter that floats on the water and has a large amount of surface area that provides an ample water supply.� This is evident by the approximate 20 strokes per liter giving it an approximate�3 liter per minute flow rate.� I would count my pumps so that I could estimate how much water I had transported to my hydration bag and know when to stop.� In comparison the Miniworks EX has a 1 liter per minute flow rate, a substantial difference.� This pre-filter will stop the larger debris from clogging the main hollow fiber filter and, just as manufactures always advise, I would try to place it in the cleanest water available to maximize the life of the filter.

�

One thing I did was to remove the velcro straps that are on top of the pre-filter as I didn't see a need for them and they kept it from sitting flat on the water which is important so you don't suck in air while filtering.� The only issue I had while filtering the first few times was that I would occasionally pull the pre-filter off the water and suck in a little air.� To keep from doing this I would put it in a calmer portion of the creek so it wouldn't float away and then tilt up at an angle because it was at the end of its line.� Also I moved the part of the pump with my hydration line and kept the inflow line as steady as possible.�

I haven't had this filter clog or slow down once so I gave it a 9.� I didn't give it a 10 because I'm sure I could have clogged it in some of the muddy waters of the elk wallows I saw this year but I don't know anyone who would filter water from a mud bath pit.� Also the water that I filter from is usually very clean and clear so I'm sure there are some areas that have murky water with lots of sand or silt that could cause a clog or reduction in flow for this or any other filter.� I have never had any issues with a clogged filter and I always try to find the cleanest water source to prevent these types of issues.� If the filter does clog there is a quick backflush process that should clear it.� To maintain the filter and flow�MSR recommends backflushing every 8 liters.� Pick your puddles wisely if you have to use them as a last resort.

�

The Hyperflow retails for around $100 and is effective against protozoa and bacteria.� It will not filter out taste like a ceramic filter will, such as the Miniworks EX, or chemicals/toxins.� In the areas I hunt the water tastes great but if this is a concern just take a pack of Wilderness Athlete Hydrate and Recover to mix in and this filter will work great for you.� Overall I found this to be a perfect backcountry hunting filter that I will now be carrying in my pack until something new comes out that tops its effectiveness and size.� For more information go to http://www.msrgear.com/watertreatment/hyperflow.asp and learn more about this product.

[...]

My Goals for the 2008-2009 Season..

michaeledge@bowcast.com — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 02:00:00 +0100

My goal this year is to take a whitetail with my bow. I plan to go in a couple of weeks to shoot a hog with my bow to get ready for the season. I will be going to my hunting camp in grosse tete to hunt both hogs and whitetail. When I hunt hogs I plan to start with a treestand, bit if that does not work I will try and put a spot and stalk. When I am whitetail hunting I will be hunting out of a treestand. Unlike hunting big muleys in the mountains, we cannot spot and stalk because our woods are too thick. My setup this year is a HOYT Avenger set at 60 lbs and 27 1/2 in. draw legnth. I am using G5 sites. I shoot 400gr Easton arrows with 100gr thunderhead browheads. Michael
[...]

Creating you own home bow shop!!!

amaro_jason@hotmail.com — Thu, 26 Jun 2008 02:00:00 +0100

Taking the next step is what Bowcast is all about. Taking the next step, from the average archer to the complete archer is what we are trying to facilitate. For many archers the next step involves becoming your own bow mechanic. If you really want to understand how a bow works you need to start maintaining and fiddling with your own bow.

{multithumb} {multithumb}

Someone can tell you a million times how a bow works but until you start working on your own bow you will never understand all of the intricacies of super-tuning a bow.

{multithumb} {multithumb}

So how do you get started? Well, you can start by gathering the tools needed to make your own little home bow shop. It doesn’t happen overnight, so start with the basics and focus on tools that give you the most for your money. I have created a list of tools below that I use in my home shop. It is impractical to have every tool out there but that is okay, I still go to my local shop called “the Backwoodsman” to get my arrows cut and to shoot the bull with the guys.

Along those same lines even if you do have a home bow shop still support your local archery shops, you can learn a lot just buy listening and watching.

Again below is a list of items that I have and it has served me pretty well. Remember working on a bow isn’t that hard and there aren’t too many things you can do to really mess it up. If you get stuck or are unsure about something post your question on the forums or ask your local pro.

Tool

Notes

Bow Press

Bowmaster press. Cheap and Easy.

Bow Vise

Use it to hold your bow while you are working on it

Bowplane

This tool allows you to check your center shot quickly and makes sure that you don’t have any cam lean. It is quick and easy

Eze-eye

Allows you to center your center but you do have to remove your sight. Will allow to you practice aiming.

Small Scale

You can weigh your entire arrow components to make sure your arrows are consistent in weight.

Paper Tuner

Allows you to Paper Tune your bows and that your arrow is shooting bullet holes.

Arrow Fletcher

To re-fletch your vanes. This allows you to try different combinations of vanes wraps.

Chronograph

You can see how changes in equipment change your KE.

G5 ASD Tool

Allows to you make sure that the inserts are square and your arrows are consistent.

Lighter

For Burning tags ends of string loops or serving ends.

Bow Square

You can use this to give yourself a starting point for setting your nock point and your arrow rest.

Video Camera

You can use this to evaluate your form. Take video from as many angles as possible.

Serving Tools

To reserve your string. You can increase the speed of your bow by decreasing the amount of weight on string.

String Splitter

You can use this to adjust position of your peep sight. Slight adjustment can really make a difference in performance.

White Out to Mark Reference Points

Mark your sight, cams and rest so your have a visual reference point to determine if something has moved.

Leveling Bubbles

You can use these to make sure your arrow is parallel when it is on the rest and you can use them to get your 3rd axis initially set.

4 ft Carpenters Level – 2nd Axis

You can use this to set your 2nd Axis.

Plumb String – 3rd Axis

You can set your 3rd Axis by using a Plumb String

Drop Cloth

Keeps your workstation clean and keeps your bow from getting dings.

Take Care

Jason

[...]

Setting your 2nd Axis - Making sure you bubble is level

amaro_jason@hotmail.com — Mon, 26 May 2008 22:32:32 +0100

I hope everybody had a great and safe Memorial Day. If you are a Veteran, thank you for your service.

You may have been hearing a lot of buzz around setting your 3rd axis. Well, that is great and we should set the 3rd axis but you might be asking yourself, “What is the 2nd axis and should I worry about it?” Well, yes you should worry about your 2nd axis. The 2nd axis is basically making sure that the bubble on your sight is level. It is really pretty easy to check. If you bubble is not giving you the correct reading, what could happen? It can lead you to induce bow torque into your grip, and it will lead to basic inaccuracy. There are two basic ways; one is more reliable and the other is kind of cheesy.

Okay the first and IMO best way to set you 2nd axis is to place your bow in a bow vise. Then use a 4 ft carpenter’s level and place it against the limb pockets or limbs of your bow. Gently press the level against the bow until the bubble on your carpenter’s level is indicating that your level and bow are perfectly vertical. Now look at the bubble on your sight. This will show you how canted your sight is. Now you can adjust your bubble and make it square. My Spot Hogg has 2nd axis adjustments but if you sight doesn’t you will need to shim it somehow.

{multithumb}

The other and kind of cheesy way is to place your bow in a door jam. Theoretically your door jam should be straight up and down… Now you can adjust your sight accordingly. I know, I know pretty cheesy and I don’t use this method but in a pinch it just might work.

Take Care….

Remember, “Long shots and Stiff Arrows”

J-

Oh... I almost forgot, why was I messing around with my 2nd axis. Well, I was setting up the Blackhawk. So far it has been shooting pretty well. I am still getting some string stretch and my peep is rotating but I am thinking that should come to a halt pretty soon. If it doesn't I will be replacing the sting. I also noticed that my riser is significantly thicker than my Hoyt's Riser. I don't think it causes any problems but it has to add weight to the bow, I going to call Parker and see what they say. Below are a picture of my Bear at 50 yards. Again, nothng too special but alot of fun.

{multithumb}

{multithumb} [...]

Britney Spears prefers 7 inches

aroney@bowcast.com — Sun, 17 Feb 2008 20:18:24 +0100

As I am getting ready to slip into a new bow, I have been contemplating the change I am going to be making to my brace height - which is currently 7 inches on my Hoyt VTec. I am moving into a 6 inch brace height - so, it has me thinking...is the speed really worth it?

As I thought through this, I realized it might be worth sharing a few considerations and a definition around [[brace height]] on a bow.

Brace height is the [[perpendicular]] distance from the bowstring to the pivot point of the handle. This height is an important part of [[bow tuning]]. Contrary to popular opinion, changing the brace height does not change bow weight. But changing brace height does dramatically affect how a bow performs.

On average, each .5 inches in brace height affects velocity by approximately 2.5 [[feet per second]] (fps). Bottom line, the shorter the brace height, the faster the bow. So, I am gaining about 3 fps in speed on my new bow, but how do I measure what I am losing in "forgiveness"?

A lower brace height means the string is further away from the archer before he or she draws the bow. As a result, the distance the string travels to reach the full draw position is longer. The larger the brace height, the shorter the distance the string has to travel to reach the same draw length.

So what is the effect pn arrow flight of a higher brace height? The best way to imagine this is if you hold an arrow by the nock parallel to the floor, and ask a buddy to push the point to the side a couple of inches, it would be an easy taks to say the least. But if you were to hold the shaft half way down, your buddy would require a little more pressure to move the point to the side.

It is the same effect as with torquing the bow. The less the amount of string (meaning the higher the brace height) behind the cam at full draw requires more pressure to force the cams to push the end of the string out of line.

So, when looking at a bow setup to match your shooting - the fine balance is between speed and forgivenes - shorter brace height is faster shot speed, however, without proper form, you will have a harder time acheiving tight groups and overall accuracy. I have spent several years shooting a bow with a 7 inch brace height while I continued to work on my form. With my short draw length, I am ready to get the additional speed from a shorter brace height. I do realize that it will be a tough first couple of weeks shooting that new [[Katera]], but I am ready for the challenge.

My recommendation is to shoot a bow that is very close to having a 7 inch brace height. When you are confident with that setup, look to increase your speed by going with a bow that has a lower brace height. Welcome the challenge that your form needs to be in order to handle a bow with a lower brace height.

So, I ask you all out there in BowCast land - do you go for speed or forgiveness? And regardless of what you choose....I'd love to hear why.

PS - I am confident that Brittany is going to be happy with my decision to shoot 6 inches. It's not the length of your brace height, but whether or not you can hit the spot ;-)

Shoot Straight!

Aneal

[...]